We're off to New Caledonia!

July 15, 1994:  Dear Tom,

Tomorrow morning we’re off on another adventure and another country.  New Caledonia.  It wasn’t on my list before, but it is now.  Club Med Chateau Royal.  I’ve mailed Robbie’s latest broken glasses home.  Please call the company and order another pair of glasses for him.  Two pairs won’t last the summer. 

I’ve included the latest list of things we need for the boat. 

The heater was wonderful last night.  The scotch guarding of the furniture was done.

Things are getting exciting here.  Air France went on strike.  Air New Zealand changed our flight from 7:10 am to 2:45 pm.  We just lost a day in New Caledonia.  I wonder what will happen with our return flight next Saturday.

July 18, 1994: Dear Mom and Dad,

I should have listened to what your travel agent said.  Actually the Club Med New Caledonia would be ok if:  1. The air conditioning was working, or 2 they had screens on the windows.  Need I say more?  Skin so Soft has saved my life.  Robbie’s friends (hungry mosquitoes) are feasting on him.  Sharing a room with 2 boys is not my idea of a good time.  There are lots of water activities for Randy.  He won a sailing regatta today.  He is pleased.  Robbie is being Robbie.

Weather is pleasant here with light rain during my power walk in the morning.  The views are beautiful.  There is plenty of food.  French pancakes for breakfast every morning.  No one should starve.  They have four different styles of restaurants for dinner.  Chinese, French, Italian and basic, which has a different theme each night.  Basic was ok, Italian had excellent pizza, tonight we try Chinese and tomorrow will be French.

The facility is run down and needs a face lift.  Fortunately the boats are in very good condition.  The kids saw a sea snake which is very poisonous.  I’m trying to relax.  There are  Japanese, Australian, and New Zealanders here.  They are not accustomed to American guests.  Everyone wonders why we’re here.  Tomorrow I’m trying my hand at archery and Hobie sailing.  Randy won a sailing race on a Laser.  They also have wind surfers.  Randy has the hang of it and Robbie keeps trying.  Today Randy and I have done archery, sailing and windsurfing.  Robbie did archery and kids club. 

I hope Tom is following up on Robbie’s glasses.

July 20, 1994:  Dear Tom,

It was good hearing from you even if your fax as extremely depressing.  The boys and I were feeling very neglected and forgotten.  It’s kind of like we’d dropped off the face of the earth.  Keep in touch!  We need it.

Why another delay?  Tell me what is happening with the boat.  What have they accomplished?  What’s been done?  How are the tables?

The water is very cold here.  Randy and I went by boat to a little island to snorkel.  It was some of the best snorkeling I have ever done.  It beats Hawaii diving.  The new wetsuit was not warm enough for Randy.  He was colder than I was.  We only brought the new wetsuits to New Caledonia, no hoods, vests, etc.  It is winter here.  Cool and rainy.  It will probably be the same in Tonga and Fiji.

Today the boys won an unofficial Club Med Hobie race.  The beach boys wanted to know if Randy cheated as he had a terrible start and finished way ahead of the others. Friday is the official Hobie race.  I expect the Miller boys to uphold the Miller name.

I met a New Zealander who saw our boat on TV.

When we return to New Zealand what does the crew think of us moving onto the boat?  Or, do we go back to Takapuna? 

Randy is reading Shogun by James Clavell.  Could you bring Taipan and King Rat from home?  He needs more to read.  I’ll take him to a bookstore again when we return to New Zealand.  Meanwhile I am looking into staying another week at Club Med because I can’t imagine what I’m going to do with the boys in New Zealand for so long.

Our New Zealand Adventure Continues.

July 6, 1994

The sun is shining – we’re off in an hour.

July 8, 1994:  Dear Tom,

It was great receiving your fax when we checked back into Takapuna.  We went up to the Bay of Islands and saw some neat sights on our way up and back.  We drove through torrential rains and incredible winds.  Winds in Auckland were 130KPH, 56 knots on the boat.  Windows blew out of a building.  It was a scary drive.  Today we went thru another glowworm cave.  There was a good breeze blowing thru the cave and I was able to make it through without my claustrophobia kicking in. 

Bay of Islands must be beautiful in the summer.  The beaches are thick with clamshells.  We decided not to go to the very tip of the North Island.  It’s too cold and too much driving.

July 10, 1994

The crew doesn’t expect to get to Tonga until August 1^st.  The boys are very disappointed.   I’m not sure what to do with them for the coming weeks.  I guess we’ll know Auckland better than Los Angeles by the time we leave. 

The crew has moved onto the boat but it’s been difficult.  They bought some heaters.  Things still aren’t working right.  At least the rain gives us some idea of where the leaks are.  They don’t think we should move on board yet.  We’ll just be in the way of all the workers.  Still no tables yet, or cushions.  The fabric for the slipcovers was lost in customs (naturally) so more had to be shipped.  The dining chairs are all being repainted to match the table and fabric is being reupholstered.  The water maker isn’t working right.  It makes only 20 gallons per hour instead of 50.  The water doesn’t taste right either.  Membranes were probably damaged while in storage.  The wrong part was received that was needed to fix the heater.  Hopefully the correct part is on its way.  The sail is on schedule.

I can’t decide whether to get a duvet or a heavy wool blanket for our cabin.  It is especially cold and damp up forward in our cabin.  Any preference?  I wish I had an electric blanket, but that isn’t possible.  We put the bedspread on the beds.  They go back Monday for alterations.  The tight cushions in the kid’s cabins are a problem.  The effect is beautiful.  Gerald will see them Monday and will know what to do.  I can’t wait until we get tables on the boat so I can sew again.  It’s fun having control of the T.V. remote but there is nothing worth watching.

Tom, don’t get BBQ things yet!  I may have located the last set in Takapuna. My pasta machine and cook books are nowhere to be found.  There are some strange things missing.  Tell me when you’re ready for my next list.  It’s growing.  Are the old waffle irons at home or also lost?

We are relaxing this weekend.  The kids and I needed time to hang out.  Randy finished reading a couple of books. 

Keep faxing us.  It’s the next best thing to phone calls and it’s fun hearing the news.  We’re going to the movies this afternoon.  The kids are being bums this weekend.  I found two really good (expensive) pans for the boat.  It will be a good splurge.

July 12, 1994   Dear Mom and Dad

We need to make some quick decisions.   I’m thinking of taking the kids to a Club Med – either New Caledonia (is it safe?) or Tahiti that costs more.  Other options:  put the kids on a plane home.  I need to stay here to supervise.  Randy wants to go sailing and doesn’t care where.  Robbie has no desire to go home.  Or, Randy goes home and Robbie stays with me.  Robbie and I could probably move onto the boat by the end of the week.  I can’t do it with both boys.  You could meet us somewhere.  Pick an Island.  It’s been a long time since you’ve been to Tahiti and Bora Bora.  Or we could meet you in Fiji or Australia.  Unfortunately we need to decide quickly.  Some areas of Tahiti are now too polluted to swim in the ocean.  We must be careful.

July 12, 1994 Dear Tom, 

I’ve been calling travel agents.  What do you think of my taking the kids to New Caledonia Club Med?  They have loads of water sports (except scuba diving) and the price is $4423.00, which includes airfare.  Another option is to put the kids on a plane home.  Randy wanted to go home until he heard ideas like Tahiti, etc, but only if the hotel has a sailboat.  Robbie has no desire to go home.  I am very uncomfortable with leaving the boat.  Without the boys I could probably move on board by the end of the week.  I’m ok with the idea of being here until the end of the week, going to the island for 8 days, and returning to New Zealand for the final inspection of the boat.  OR, Randy goes home, and Robbie and I manage.  Maybe he can sleep on the little sofa in our cabin.  There is no way all three of us can move onto the boat.  Is New Caledonia safe??? I really don’t know what to do – stay and send the kids home, all of us go home, Randy goes home alone, Club Med Tahiti or New Caledonia, etc.  HELP!  I feel an owner should be here for the final details. 

Answer quickly!

It’s raining hard here.

Launching a New Boat Continues

June 29, 1994 New Zealand

It’s pretty crazy here.  No one knows from one day to the next what is happening.  We moved off the boat yesterday and back to Takapuna International Motor Lodge.  Tom said…Just take clothes for two days.  Then he shows up at the lodge and informs us we’re going sightseeing thru Sunday.  The boat is 40 feet up in the air.  I have to climb the scaffolding to get our travel clothes.

The people here are so nice, friendly and helpful.

These are the plans as they stand today:  Tom leaves July 4^th for home.  The boat is scheduled to leave New Zealand between July 10^th and July 12^th.  The boys and I leave July 17^th for Tonga.  Tom will arrive July 20^th.  The crew arrives July 2^nd.  I’ll probably spend July 4-5 with them giving Marja (our chief) instructions as to our taste in food and what I would like stocked on the boat.  I’ll then do more sightseeing with the kids.  Maybe we’ll see the boat off though I’m not sure.  I may want some more clothes from the boat.  More sightseeing here on the North Island and then we are off to our next adventure.  We hear Tonga has the best cruising in the Pacific.  The boat will be very comfortable.  The toilets flush with a foot pedal (no more pumping 20 times).

July 5, 1994:  Dear Tom,

You’ve only been gone 24 hours but life continues to be exciting.  I’m at the boat yard searching for my missing items.  Some boxes never did make it to New Zealand.  I’m enclosing a list of things Marja and I would like which we can’t find here.  Take what you want from home.  I’ll bet your mother would pick up the rest for you.

1.     3 bags of clothes pins

2.     Battery operated flour sifter

3.     BBQ tools including a brush.  It’s the wrong time of year here

4.     Electric juicer

5.     Belgian waffle irons

6.     Later we’ll discuss cookbooks that didn’t show up either.

I hope your flight was excellent and all is well at home.  Did escrow close?

p.s. we got 2 chair styles with 2 colors of frames!

July 5, 1994

The adventure continues.  Tomorrow the boys and I leave Takapuna again.  This time we will go up to the Bay of Islands.  It’s too awful staying in Auckland and trying to deal with the boat torn up the way it is.  The workmen are swarming all over the boat.  Nothing stays where it is put.  And everything is filthy!  I thought we were driving tomorrow but a huge storm just hit.  I’m not driving country roads in this pouring rain and wind.  We’ll see what tomorrow brings.  I forgot to send Robbie’s broken glasses home with Tom.  If they can’t be repaired here I’ll mail them home.

I just ordered dining room chairs for the boat.  They sent 2 white and 3 cream-colored chairs.  2 grey seat cushions and 3 white cushions.  I’m struggling to straighten that out.  I went crazy when I found their mistakes in 3 stages.  I never did get what I originally ordered, but was delighted with the white which matches the boat.  I wish the tables could be white as well.  I still haven’t seen the tables, which are being made.

Diane took the boys to the zoo and a museum while Marja and I searched for supplies. 

Rotorua (New Zealand) is always fun.  Bubbling mud, steam everywhere, geysers, boiling water, ice covering the car in the morning, frost that doesn’t thaw all day and bitter cold.  Cold that penetrates to our bones.  We went luging, which was great fun. 

Tom’s driving has become very creative.  He’s decided that he knows more than the locals.  He became a pro at making ‘u’ turns.  Of course asking for help would make things too easy.  Actually (and he’ll never live this down), we decided to go to Raglan and he did ask for directions.  BUT, he knew more than the local innkeeper and went another way.  He found a 50-kilometer unpaved, narrow, winding, twisting road.  Toward the end was an easy hike to a magnificent waterfall.  We watered the bushes, did the hike and finally found Raglan.  The car was covered in mud above the door handles.  We did see rolling hills, sheep, cows and mountains.  At least this time it was still daylight.  If grandma Betty were here she’d say “we’re having an adventure.”  And we certainly did!

People here are nice but the food has been awful.  It seems like everything is fried, creamy and cheesy,   

So far I’m very pleased with our crew Marja and Steve.  Marja is very pleasant, easy to be with, navigates well and is very helpful in trying to help get the boat ready.  I’m driving all over the place.  So long as someone navigates I’m succeeding in driving here.  It’s weird driving on the wrong side of the road.

The boat should be ready by July 112, 1994, but no one thinks the sail will be ready.  When will we leave New Zealand I wonder?

Tom, I had a long talk with Jim S.  We aren’t going to visit them because of 3 dogs, 2 cats and a bird.  Their 100 acres sound wonderful and the kids great.  Oh well.

I went to the boat yard again to search for our missing things.  The books are moldy and everything is damp and filthy.  I cleaned and filled the car with books.  I still can’t find everything.

The rain ended and now it’s just blowing hard.  We will probably leave in the morning.  Continue sending faxes to Takapuna International.  We will return there.

Sailing Back in Time to 1994

Sailing Back in Time

We haven’t always spent our time barging the canals of Europe.  Before discovering barging we were sailors.  Or rather Tom was the sailor and I was the seasick companion.  When Tom and I met I didn’t know I had this problem of seasickness.  I had spent many hours happily sailing small boats with the UCLA sailing club.  I even taught sailing. 

Now it’s December 2014 and rather than call it Spring cleaning I guess it’s winter cleaning and I got a bug to empty out closets and cupboards.  I didn’t get very far because I found letters I had written in 1994 chronicling the saga of finally launching our 92 foot custom sloop Locura after 4 long years and two countries (Thailand and New Zealand) attempting to build it.  But that is a story for another time.  With minor editing I plan on reproducing my correspondence detailing our first season sailing as a family on our yacht Locura designed by Nelson Marek out of San Diego.

We are going back to 1994.  Randy (our eldest son) was 13 years old.  Robbie (our second born) was 10 years old.  Having been promised that our boat would be ready we took our boys out of school early and flew to New Zealand.  My letters were sent by fax when I was able to find one. Here we go! 

June 25, 1994.   New Zealand,  Takapuna International Motor Lodge.

This whole experience is incredible!  The boat will be beautiful if it is ever completed.  Quite a few unfixable errors – we’ll just live with them.  Grey silk sofa is hopefully torn out today.  No tables yet, or bedspreads, or dining chairs, etc.  The part of the boat done correctly has a warm glow.  Many changes were made to the plans.  We are moving onto the unfinished boat today.  We will spend the weekend sailing (it’s called sea trials).  Then back to the motel Sunday night or Monday.  The boat is being pulled out of the water for adjustments.  I’m trying to change our flight to Tonga to July 17^th, hoping Tom will give up going to Vanuatu.  I don’t want to spend a week in Tonga at a hotel with kids without Tom while he flies back home to work.    I’m thinking we should go see the South Island.

We are exhausted!  We’ve had very little sleep and lots of work.  At least we’re healthy!  Everyone is friendly and very helpful.  Randy is excited and loves being around the boat all day.  Robbie is bored and being melodramatic.  He broke his glasses the first day.  His second pair had better last.

The weather is cold and drizzly with some sun at times.  They are dealing with a severe drought here.

I’m doing my best to just go with the flow.  There is only so much I can do.

June 28, 1994 New Zealand

We spent our first weekend on the boat and sailed to Kawau.  We arrived in darkness.  Dawn breaking showed us a lovely area but no time to explore.  I hid in our cabin during the sail and watched my window buried regularly under water.  I wasn’t happy.  The boat was heeled over so far I couldn’t stay in our bed.  What I thought was a stupid, little, narrow sofa in our cabin turned into a lifesaver.  I rolled myself in my hand made fish quilt and waited for the sail to end – all four hours.  The boat handled the weather beautifully and my boys were happy!  I was asking myself what I was doing here. As usual, once we anchored I was happy again and my stomach back in place.

The next morning after rain, hail, and wind (it’s winter here in New Zealand as the seasons are reversed from the United States), we lifted anchor, raised the main sail, and then lowered everything again.  The battens (which give the mail sail shape) had shattered.  It was like an explosion of blue pieces, which everyone was dodging.  I can’t believe what the cost is to re-do the mainsail…again.

We powered back and I was happy.  I sat in the pilothouse with everyone and even managed to fix a snack in the galley.

The pilothouse is wonderful!  That is where our boat life will take place.  It is comfortable with a 360-degree view of the world.  Randy is in heaven and Robbie is managing.  He’s read three books this weekend.  He needs more activity than sitting in the cockpit waiting for the boat to be ready.  Rob our boat designer is here and teaching Randy how to gather data for him this summer using my computer.  It’s a great science project for him.  He follows the men around watching, learning and taking it all in.  This is more than Robbie is interested in.  Robbie likes the sailing and more activity.

I’m sure the boat will be wonderful when it’s finished.  The weather is crisp.  It rains a little, clears for a while, and then rains a little again.  It isn’t a problem for the sights I’d like to see. 

I’m frantically trying to get slipcovers made before the crew totally destroys my beautiful fabric.

June 29, 1994 New Zealand

It’s pretty crazy here.  No one knows from one day to the next what is happening.  We moved off the boat yesterday and back to Takapuna International Motor Lodge.  Tom said…Just take clothes for two days.  Then he shows up at the lodge and informs us we’re going sightseeing thru Sunday.  The boat is 40 feet up in the air.  I have to climb the scaffolding to get our travel clothes.

The people here are so nice, friendly and helpful.

These are the plans as they stand today:  Tom leaves July 4^th for home.  The boat is scheduled to leave New Zealand between July 10^th and July 12^th.  The boys and I leave July 17^th for Tonga.  Tom will arrive July 20^th.  The crew arrives July 2^nd.  I’ll probably spend July 4-5 with them giving Marja (our chief) instructions as to our taste in food and what I would like stocked on the boat.  I’ll then do more sightseeing with the kids.  Maybe we’ll see the boat off though I’m not sure.  I may want some more clothes from the boat.  More sightseeing here on the North Island and then we are off to our next adventure.  We hear Tonga has the best cruising in the Pacific.  The boat will be very comfortable.  The toilets flush with a foot pedal (no more pumping 20 times).

Warning! Do Not Read This If You Are Hungry!

The end of the season for sunflowers and us.

Food seems to be a recurring theme in my writings.  For our last meal of the season in Paris we returned to Verjus.  Friends recommended other restaurants but we enjoyed our meal so much the first time we had to return.  This meal was even better.  They have a set menu but try to accommodate dietary restrictions.  It is an eight-course price fixed meal for 68 Euro.  We didn't add the cheese course as last time we didn't think they served (in our opinion) unusual or special cheeses.

Squid from Saint Jean de Luz, nettle linguini, piquillo pepper confit, toasted marcona almonds

Pan seared foie gras, baked grapes, candied hazelnuts, grains, root vegetables.

Skillet cooked duck breast, smoked celery root, orange, caraway, red cabbage sauerkraut

Grilled hanger steak, butter braised sun chokes, sweet onions, wood sorrel, sun choke chips

Salted lemon cake, lemon curd, blackberry sorbet, vanilla crumbs, lemon creme anglaise

I missed a few pictures because I started eating before remembering to photograph first.  The food was delicious and beautifully presented.  I don't know why they don't have a michelin star.  I find their menu creative, seasonal, and the service impeccable.  I wonder whether the plates, table settings, etc need to be more attractive and "special" to earn that first star.

After our final guests of the season left it was time to take Rabelo to her winter home in St Jean de Losne.  While there we had a lovely lunch on board with our neighbors Bob and Janet.  We were disappointed to discover they had placed their boat on the market.  There are many residents at the Ancient Lock and over time we hope to meet and make friends with more of them.

Now that Rabelo was home it was time to winterize her.  It can freeze there which means we need to empty the water from all tanks, pipes, toilets, and wherever else there is water.  It also involves using a lot of antifreeze.  That’s as far as I’m going with discussing the winterizing of Rabelo.  Our captain will make sure it is all done properly.  We also stored our deck furniture so it will be in good shape when we return in the spring.

It is hard leaving Rabelo as we had our best season yet.  The good news is we have much planned for the six months we are in the US.  Seeing family and friends, meeting our new granddaughter, taking short trips around the country are all things to look forward to.  

This is our camera shy captain Julian.  The only picture I was permitted to take of him.  He helped to make it such an exceptional season! 

More food!  Tom and I enjoyed an evening of "grazing" since we won't see these foods for 6 months.  I am NOT getting my cholesterol checked any time soon!

Riding the metro in Paris when it is raining isn't easy.  For Tom and me, being tall helps because it is an absolute crush of bodies.  You think there is no more room but at each stop people aggressively shove their way in.

I can't resist introducing my darling new granddaughter Lucia.  Her two older sisters Talia and Zoe think she is the cutest baby EVER!

In case you are worried that you won't hear from me for 6 months, I'm not done blogging.  Do stay in touch.  And remember to check next May when we return to France and our 1929 barge Rabelo for season four.

Autumn in France

Dreamy views as we sailed along the Burgundy Canal.

The weather and scenery is changing.

 Which season is more beautiful?  Spring, summer and fall have all been spectacular this year.

For the third year in a row we unexpectedly had the pleasure of my brother and sister-in-law on Rabelo.  They are great fun to have on board.  Arlene is always helpful in the kitchen with meal preparation.  Jerry is an expert now at doing dishes without wasting water.  He's also learned to turn off lights when leaving a room.  We took the boat back up the Burgundy Canal to Pont d”Ouche so we could show them some of the sights while cruising back to Dijon.  Naturally we went to Chateauneuf for crepes.

We had delicious crepes at the Creperie in Chateauneuf

Friends are joining us for lunch

It's colder now so I made minestrone soup to go along with the beautiful cheeses, pate's, fruit, baguettes and more 

We went for a walk.  Jerry and Arlene couldn't pass up a delicious quiche.

What to do with a brioche which wasn't that good and I had forgotten about?  Turn it into bread pudding for breakfast with sausage and fresh fruit!

Bread Pudding

Brother and sister in a rare picture together.

At the lock house 46 on the Burgundy Canal are some of the best crepes we've had this year.  My crepe had chorizzo and was excellent.  Their dessert crepes were also amazing.  I can't wait to return next year.

Restaurant-Creperie L'Ecluse 46

Acres of Vineyards - it's fall.

Those grapes can get heavy.  Hey buddies, can you lend a helping hand?

A town had fabulous screens made from tools used for growing grapes.  Here is a detail from one panel on one screen.

 In case you were worried as to how I was going to celebrate my birthday…it was lovely.  Since the boat would be on the move the actual day of (which meant cooking, dishes, etc.) Tom took me to my favorite place for lunch the day before.  I LOVE Chappeau Rouge, a 2 star Michelin starred restaurant in Dijon!  Can a 3 star Michelin restaurant be any better?  Lunch was accompanied by a great bottle of wine Savigny les-Beaune Premier Cru.

 They bring around a bread cart with two types of bread and a brioche.  The brioche is amazing.  I could make a meal of just that!  They also have sweet butter with salt on the side.

Starter that the chief creates.

Another starter the chief has created to amuse us.  Every bite was special.

Prawns and Foie Gras Ravioli, Truffle and Creamy Soya sauce.  (for me)

Seasonal Mushrooms and Potatoes Gnocchi (for Tom)

We asked how the fish was prepared since every time we eat there it is absolute perfection.  They use a special oven and the fish is baked at a low temperature, slowly.  I believe seafood is their forte.  The round thing in the middle is the plate (not a mushroom).  One thing I particularly like about this restaurant is the sauces for the main courses are on the side rather completely covering the food.

Line Yellow Pollack "Grenobloise" Sauce

Roasted Deer Haunch, Game Sauce

Milk Chocolate and Salted Butter Caramel

Roasted Apple, Cinnamon Soufflé

As if we hadn't had enough!

A satisfied customer.

 After lunch it was back to Rabelo and Julian drove the boat since we have a rule about drinking and driving!

In case you hadn't gotten the message from this blog, the food and wine have been amazing and we enjoyed ourselves eating and drinking our way through Burgundy.

In choosing what kind of barge we wanted one priority was being able to carry a car on deck.  It was a wise decision.  While some areas have many sights within walking distance from where we tie up, other parts of France require transportation to get around.  Bicycles can’t always take us where we want to go.  Our little car has made it possible to venture further from Rabelo and explore many areas.