Thursday, June 23, 2016

Champagne and Chateau Thierry

Ancient trees along a walkway around the ruins of Chateau Thierry
 One of the nice things about spending so much time in France is the opportunity to revisit places we have enjoyed in the past.  Being able to share with friends makes it that much better.


We returned to Chateau-Thierry with Marty and Sara.  It is here that a battle was fought on July 18, 1918 and was one of the first actions of the American Expeditionary Forces (AEF) under General John J. “Black Jack” Pershing.

View from the Chateau Thierry ruins across town to a WW1 American War Memorial

The World War I monument designed by Paul Cret was dedicated in 1937.  It is located on a hill two miles west of Chateau-Thierry and commands a wide view of the valley of the Marne River.  It commemorates the sacrifices and achievements of the American and French before and during the Aisne-Marne and Oise-Aisne offenses.  The west face has sculpted figures representing the United States and France.  The east face has a map showing American military operations in the area.

Chateau Thierry American Monument WW1 War Memorial dedicated in 1937.  East Face. 
These two figures represent the United States and France.  The monument is currently undergoing a renovation

Visiting Chateau Fere-en-Tardenois we decided to have a drink with some cheese and baguette under the imposing remains of the Chateau ruins. Fere-en-Tardenois was constructed between 1206 and 1260 as a fortified castle by Robert de Dreux, grandson of Louis VI, King of France.  This chateau was the playground of King Francois 1 and known as the Pleasure Palace of Kings.  The present chateau was restored in 1863 and converted to a hotel in 1956.

Ruins of Chateau Fere-en-Tardenois with some of the restoration.

From the ruins of Chateau Fere-en-Tardenois looking at the Chateau de Fere which is now a hotel.

Spectacular ruins of the Chateau Fere-en-Tardenois

An impressive bridge was built over the moat to the chateau.


These three guys greeted us at a lock.

Charming village in Champagne.  Only in Champagne do you see vineyards stretching from the canals to the forests.

What is a paddle boat doing here?
The Cathedral Saint Etienne at Chalon-en-Champagne.  This cathedral was rebuilt in the 13th Century.

With all the rain we have had the rivers are flowing!
White water rafting anyone?

Our new crew Nathalie and Albon with Tom supervising. 
 Our quick visit to Champagne reminded us of how much we love both the area and the drink!
Our first stop for tasting champagne was at Guy Charlemagne.

Our next stop was Le Mesnil.  Wonderful champagne.
We bough so much champagne that we had to continue our tasting a second day.  Besides, we wouldn't want to get caught driving under the influence.
We were fortunate enough to have Michel Gonet for the second time guide us through the tastings of some of his champagne as well as tell us about his wine business in Bordeaux.  He opened champagne from 2004 and 1998 for our tasting pleasure.
We went with Michel Gonet into his cellar to find the champagne we had purchased.

Timbered building in Joinville.
Timbered homes in Chalon en Champagne
In Saint Dizier L'Epicurien Restaurant .  Tom's salad.
The house Foie Gras melted in my mouth.

Seafood in parchment with vegetables.  The side dish was amazing although I'm not quite sure what it was. The presentation with drops of reduced balsamic vinegar was a nice touch. 
Poached apricots, meringue, and ice cream...delicious!
It was exciting meeting Charles Hedrich the French sportsman, alpinist, rower and skipper.  This man rowed across the Atlantic twice, solo without stopping.  He did this unassisted for 145 days alone at sea, rowing 6800 miles on the boat pictured.   Other accomplishments of his were sailing solo around the world in 122 days and climbing to the summit of Mt. Everest.  Look him up on the internet.
Charlies Hedrich rowing along a canal in France where we had the opportunity to meet him.
This bridge isn't as low as some.  Photo by Nathalie
Photo by Nathalie
Photo by Nathalie
Thursday, June 9, 2016

A Day in the Life of Barging

Dandelions coating the canal.  They are like snow flurries flying everywhere as the breeze whirls them around and around.
Everyone thinks that all we do is float down tranquil canals, sipping champagne and admiring the lovely scenery.  We certainly do spend time cruising down beautiful canals.  Other times it might be fast flowing rivers, which can be anything but calm.  The sipping of champagne (or other alcoholic beverages must be reserved for after Rabelo is tied down for the evening.  It is much too dangerous to drive a 200-ton boat while under the influence (or any size boat for that matter).

Therefore I will occasionally describe what a day in the life of barging may consist of.  Today was certainly as typical as any day can be. 

At 9 am a technician/engineer arrived from a boat yard to change the oil on our new generator.  Once that task was completed Tom and I walked into Vitry-le-Francois to take care of a few matters before casting off with our new crew.  We had been eyeing a chocolate factory for days.  They are closed Monday-Wednesday morning while they make their tasty little treats.  It’s Thursday so we wandered over to see if the madam was now open.  She was open and offered us a “taste.”  While her chocolates were not necessarily to my taste, Tom was in heaven.  Of all the times to have forgotten a camera…she had beautiful chocolate pieces, more like sculptures, or works of art on display.  Chocolate wine bottles, chocolate shoes filled with goodies, all looking beautiful.  I hadn’t forgotten my wallet so Tom bought an assortment of chocolates.  I’m sure I will be sampling the milk chocolate pieces in the bag while he can indulge in the dark chocolate.  But we needed to get moving.  We went to the post office to mail some things and pick up more stamps.  Then it was imperative that we go to a boulangerie for fresh baguettes and a dessert to share after dinner.

This bridge is from 1882.  We lowered our wheelhouse to fit underneath it.
Once back on Rabelo I started the laundry.  The next few hours were spent cooking and preparing lunch.  I roasted peppers, zucchini, and eggplant, while sautéing onions and mushrooms. Fruit had to be cut up and an assortment of cheeses laid out.  I also made iced tea for the weather is warming up rapidly.  Meanwhile, since we are training a new crew, every time we entered a lock I dashed up on deck to supervise the handling of the front lines.

Lady captain at the helm (standing on a stool to see forward)
After lunch I had to clean up the lunch mess, do more laundry and then I could relax a little.  I need to do “paperwork” such as paying bills, but with no internet available business will need to wait a while.  So much for my relaxing.  While preparing lunch Alban had been handling the front lines.  Now it was Nathalie’s turn, so I went up to supervise her work.

Nathalie is doing a good job of handling the ropes.

Then it was time to begin dinner preparations and get more laundry done.  Tonight is a simple green salad, and mussels with roasted potatoes.
The locks are tight.