Warning! Do Not Read This If You Are Hungry!

The end of the season for sunflowers and us.

Food seems to be a recurring theme in my writings.  For our last meal of the season in Paris we returned to Verjus.  Friends recommended other restaurants but we enjoyed our meal so much the first time we had to return.  This meal was even better.  They have a set menu but try to accommodate dietary restrictions.  It is an eight-course price fixed meal for 68 Euro.  We didn't add the cheese course as last time we didn't think they served (in our opinion) unusual or special cheeses.

Squid from Saint Jean de Luz, nettle linguini, piquillo pepper confit, toasted marcona almonds

Pan seared foie gras, baked grapes, candied hazelnuts, grains, root vegetables.

Skillet cooked duck breast, smoked celery root, orange, caraway, red cabbage sauerkraut

Grilled hanger steak, butter braised sun chokes, sweet onions, wood sorrel, sun choke chips

Salted lemon cake, lemon curd, blackberry sorbet, vanilla crumbs, lemon creme anglaise

I missed a few pictures because I started eating before remembering to photograph first.  The food was delicious and beautifully presented.  I don't know why they don't have a michelin star.  I find their menu creative, seasonal, and the service impeccable.  I wonder whether the plates, table settings, etc need to be more attractive and "special" to earn that first star.

After our final guests of the season left it was time to take Rabelo to her winter home in St Jean de Losne.  While there we had a lovely lunch on board with our neighbors Bob and Janet.  We were disappointed to discover they had placed their boat on the market.  There are many residents at the Ancient Lock and over time we hope to meet and make friends with more of them.

Now that Rabelo was home it was time to winterize her.  It can freeze there which means we need to empty the water from all tanks, pipes, toilets, and wherever else there is water.  It also involves using a lot of antifreeze.  That’s as far as I’m going with discussing the winterizing of Rabelo.  Our captain will make sure it is all done properly.  We also stored our deck furniture so it will be in good shape when we return in the spring.

It is hard leaving Rabelo as we had our best season yet.  The good news is we have much planned for the six months we are in the US.  Seeing family and friends, meeting our new granddaughter, taking short trips around the country are all things to look forward to.  

This is our camera shy captain Julian.  The only picture I was permitted to take of him.  He helped to make it such an exceptional season! 

More food!  Tom and I enjoyed an evening of "grazing" since we won't see these foods for 6 months.  I am NOT getting my cholesterol checked any time soon!

Riding the metro in Paris when it is raining isn't easy.  For Tom and me, being tall helps because it is an absolute crush of bodies.  You think there is no more room but at each stop people aggressively shove their way in.

I can't resist introducing my darling new granddaughter Lucia.  Her two older sisters Talia and Zoe think she is the cutest baby EVER!

In case you are worried that you won't hear from me for 6 months, I'm not done blogging.  Do stay in touch.  And remember to check next May when we return to France and our 1929 barge Rabelo for season four.

Autumn in France

Dreamy views as we sailed along the Burgundy Canal.

The weather and scenery is changing.

 Which season is more beautiful?  Spring, summer and fall have all been spectacular this year.

For the third year in a row we unexpectedly had the pleasure of my brother and sister-in-law on Rabelo.  They are great fun to have on board.  Arlene is always helpful in the kitchen with meal preparation.  Jerry is an expert now at doing dishes without wasting water.  He's also learned to turn off lights when leaving a room.  We took the boat back up the Burgundy Canal to Pont d”Ouche so we could show them some of the sights while cruising back to Dijon.  Naturally we went to Chateauneuf for crepes.

We had delicious crepes at the Creperie in Chateauneuf

Friends are joining us for lunch

It's colder now so I made minestrone soup to go along with the beautiful cheeses, pate's, fruit, baguettes and more 

We went for a walk.  Jerry and Arlene couldn't pass up a delicious quiche.

What to do with a brioche which wasn't that good and I had forgotten about?  Turn it into bread pudding for breakfast with sausage and fresh fruit!

Bread Pudding

Brother and sister in a rare picture together.

At the lock house 46 on the Burgundy Canal are some of the best crepes we've had this year.  My crepe had chorizzo and was excellent.  Their dessert crepes were also amazing.  I can't wait to return next year.

Restaurant-Creperie L'Ecluse 46

Acres of Vineyards - it's fall.

Those grapes can get heavy.  Hey buddies, can you lend a helping hand?

A town had fabulous screens made from tools used for growing grapes.  Here is a detail from one panel on one screen.

 In case you were worried as to how I was going to celebrate my birthday…it was lovely.  Since the boat would be on the move the actual day of (which meant cooking, dishes, etc.) Tom took me to my favorite place for lunch the day before.  I LOVE Chappeau Rouge, a 2 star Michelin starred restaurant in Dijon!  Can a 3 star Michelin restaurant be any better?  Lunch was accompanied by a great bottle of wine Savigny les-Beaune Premier Cru.

 They bring around a bread cart with two types of bread and a brioche.  The brioche is amazing.  I could make a meal of just that!  They also have sweet butter with salt on the side.

Starter that the chief creates.

Another starter the chief has created to amuse us.  Every bite was special.

Prawns and Foie Gras Ravioli, Truffle and Creamy Soya sauce.  (for me)

Seasonal Mushrooms and Potatoes Gnocchi (for Tom)

We asked how the fish was prepared since every time we eat there it is absolute perfection.  They use a special oven and the fish is baked at a low temperature, slowly.  I believe seafood is their forte.  The round thing in the middle is the plate (not a mushroom).  One thing I particularly like about this restaurant is the sauces for the main courses are on the side rather completely covering the food.

Line Yellow Pollack "Grenobloise" Sauce

Roasted Deer Haunch, Game Sauce

Milk Chocolate and Salted Butter Caramel

Roasted Apple, Cinnamon Soufflé

As if we hadn't had enough!

A satisfied customer.

 After lunch it was back to Rabelo and Julian drove the boat since we have a rule about drinking and driving!

In case you hadn't gotten the message from this blog, the food and wine have been amazing and we enjoyed ourselves eating and drinking our way through Burgundy.

In choosing what kind of barge we wanted one priority was being able to carry a car on deck.  It was a wise decision.  While some areas have many sights within walking distance from where we tie up, other parts of France require transportation to get around.  Bicycles can’t always take us where we want to go.  Our little car has made it possible to venture further from Rabelo and explore many areas.

More on Burgundy

Bright Hope painted by Libby Page

Our season in France is winding down.  I wondered, since we have been going up and down the Burgundy Canal whether there is anything more to write about.  Those who know me would say that I’m not one to run out of words.  They would be correct.

Our captain mentioned that a young lady he knew was having a one woman show in Lyon and that I might like her work.  Tom and I are always up for an adventure.  An artist reception sounded like a nice change of pace.  We climbed into our car and set off on what was to be a 2-hour drive.  I believe I have mentioned previously what weather can be like here in France.  The violence of the rain and wind as a storm blows through can be frightening, especially if you find yourself driving in it!  You know where this is going.  3½-hours later we were finally in Lyon.  The idea of a leisurely dinner before the reception and seeing part of Lyon vanished with the storm.  Instead we arrived in time for the show.  Libby Page is the artist.  Before anyone else had a chance we bought one of her paintings!  The gallery owner wrapped it up and we took it home with us that evening.  It barely fit in our little car.  With Julian scrunched in the back we somehow managed.  It is now framed and the focal point in our living room.  Libby Page is a new artist trying to build up a body of work.  Fortunately for her she seems to be selling her paintings as quickly as she can paint them.  libbypage.eu.  Libby’s inspiration comes from the Canal du Midi where she worked on a hotel barge.  The magnificent plane trees growing along the canal have become infected with a fungus and are being cut down.  Her paintings are a tribute to those trees.  I love her sense of color and perspective as well as subject matter.  I have included a few more samples of her work.  Well done Libby Page!

Artist Libby Page

Artist Libby Page

Artist Libby Page

What would you do if you had more money then you could spend in a couple of lifetimes?  In 1979 Michel and Christophe PONT purchased Chateau de Savigny.  This included the Grand Chateau from the 14^th Century and the Petit Chateau 17^th Century.  They are quality wine makers.  I can confirm that their 2007 Meursault-Genevrieres Premier Cru is fantastic!  I didn’t have time to taste their reds.  It isn’t because of their wines that we went to visit the chateau.  This visit was for Tom.  Located in the heart of the Cote de Beaune the chateau overlooks a magnificent property of 12 hectares, crossed by a river, which originally supplied the moat of this old fortress.  The owner is a collector and continually adding to his assemblage.  It’s no wonder they needed so much land.

Chateau de Savigny:  Grand Chateau 14th Century plus a few of their vineyards

Chateau de Savigny:  Petit Chateau 17th Century

Beautiful grounds with jets in the background

F104, F16 and French Mirage in front of the Grand chateau

The Chateau houses one of the major motorcycle museums of France displaying nearly 250 motorcycles of almost all types dating from 1902-1960.  There are 600 model cars.  You can see the Abarth Race Car with one of the finest and most rare collections of Abarth prototypes in the world.  There are 60 different models including some unique ones, which the owner of the castle personally drove when he participated for 7 years in international racing events.  It must have been challenging getting all those cars upstairs in the chateau and squeezed into those tight spaces.  Next there are airplanes, which include about 80 fighters on the property including 4 aircraft of the Patrouille of France, 11 MIG and 17 Dassault.  That isn’t enough.  There are nearly 3400 model airplanes.  Then come the Straddle Tractors:  30 prototypes on display built between 1946 and 1956.  Let’s not forget the wine and wine growing equipment and finally firefighters.  Nearly 20 Firefighting trucks in their own building.  It was all overwhelming not to mention extremely musty and dusty.  It appears the owner would rather collect than maintain and clean the huge assembly of vehicles both full and model size.  Anyone interested in anything on wheels should take the time to visit Chateau e Savigny.

Small part of the Abarthe collection.  Note the trophies against the wall.

Small part of the model car collection

Small section of the motorcycle collection

A few more motorcycles

Sample of the model motorcycle collection

More of the airplane collection

1905 Fire truck

Fire engine collection

There is a bicycle collection as well

I want to share a meal we had at Loiseau des Ducs a Michelin one star restaurant.  This was the main course.

Merlu cuit a basse temperature ecrasee de pomme de terre citronnee vinaigrette au jaune d'oeuf

Which is better?  Or are they both wonderful and different.

This was at the covered market in Dijon

This was also at the market in Dijon