Friday, March 22, 2019

Nice and Cap Ferrat, France

Sunrise, sunset, airplanes, helicopters, seagulls soaring.  
A ferry passing in the distance 
Sailboats gently leaning, sails open to catch the wind.  
Palm trees swaying in a gentle breeze.  
Clouds drifting across the sky.
A lighthouse casts its beam across the sea
Late afternoon clouds turning pink 
Casting their warm glow over all,
Turning the sea purple.
Lunch outside on a sunny, windy day at the Cap Ferrat marina.  Enjoying life!
View from Villefranche-sur-Mer to Cap Ferrat
There is a beautiful walk around the point of Cap Ferrat.  Our reward was lunch at the lovely port village of St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat.  Some of the wealthiest people in the world have homes in Cap Ferrat. Because it was mid week, off season and breezy we had the place almost exclusively to ourselves.
The lighthouse at the point of Cap Ferrat
We walked on a path along the rugged coastline.
Some clever graffiti
We are fortunate that Nice is a short bus ride from Villefranche-sur-Mer.  That saves us from dealing with traffic, narrow and/or one way streets, suicidal motorcycle riders, lack of parking and the stress of a crowded busy city.  Each time we visit we check out a few more sights.  

Cimiez is a neighborhood in Nice with Roman ruins.  We included this in our visit to the Matisse Museum and Cimiez cemetery.
A small section of the Roman ruins.
 We visited the Matisse Museum.  There were samples of various periods of his work.  I was underwhelmed by the pieces shown.  Many were of his earlier works.  The best part of the visit (for me) was a short video showing him painting a face.  It was a brilliant example of how he created a face with just a few brushstrokes.  We missed the tour in English which I believe would have made a difference in understanding his growth.  We hope to visit the cathedral in Vence which showcases the work of his final years.
The Matisse Museum which is a 17th Century villa where Matisse lived and worked during his final years.

Bronze by Matisse

A simple face using lines we see in many of his paintings


A delicious salad with rocket, roasted peppers and eggplant, prosciutto, melted brie and a drizzle of reduced balsamic vinegar 
 Our ticket to the Matisse museum also allowed us entrance to the Modern and Contemporary Art Museum.  We understood the museum featured American and European-American artists from the 1960's to 1970's.  What we found were artists who at some point in their lives had lived in Nice.  It's important to be exposed to different types of art. I, unfortunately could not appreciate what some of these artists were attempting to convey.  Perhaps someone knowledgable in that time period could have shed some light on the art.  I found some works disturbing, (which I assume was what the artist wanted) and other works of no artistic value (again my opinion).

Bernar Venet established himself as a major figure of conceptual art.  He used scientific, architectural and mathematical subjects to create his work.

Artist Bernar Venet

Artist Bernar Venet
Jim Dine is an American pop artist sometimes considered to be part of the Neo-Dada movement. He was known for painted canvases with ordinary objects from everyday life.
Hard Hearts by Jim Dine  5 panels, double sided oil and collage on wood.

Detail of Hard Hearts
Arman (Armand Fernandez) created large works of art made of mechanical parts such as gaskets, self locking pliers, or cooking utensils like spoons, forks...
The Birds by Arman showed how metal pliers translate into a cloud of birds.

Detail of The Birds

Artist Niki de Saint Phalle created work that did resonate with me.  That it was disturbing most likely is what she wanted her viewers to feel.  Niki de Saint Phalle created altars and cathedrals that she would shoot at and destroy.  She mixed symbols of violence with religious items. 
.  Altar O.A.S. is the name of this piece.  O.A.S. was a right wing terrorist movement supporting the French invasion of Algeria at the time she created this.

Detail of Altar O.A.S.
 After trying to figure out the meaning of the art we viewed at MAMAC it was time for lunch.  L'Eau de Vie is a must for people visiting Nice.  Their prix fix lunch was affordable and delicious.  The staff were knowledgable, attentive and helpful without being overbearing.  Their lunches are designed for the local business people who have only a short time to dine but want a decent meal.

I thought I could translate what we ate into English, but that was impossible.  Instead you can see what our meal was.

Oeuf Parfait is a long cooked egg with amazing tastes in every bite.

Ravigote de Coquillages

Carpaccio de boeuf, sauce pesto coriandre.  Raw slices of beef with olive oil, pesto sauce, parmesan and fresh coriander.  Feuilleté de courage which was a flaky crust topped with caramelized onions and baked with marinated seasoned squash.
L'Eau de Vie is less than a year old and started by two childhood friends fulfilling their dreams.  They are already rated number three by Trip Advisor in Nice.  Quentin is the creative chief and Antoine is the public face of the restaurant.  They are a great team.  We are looking forward to returning for dinner soon.
Owners of restaurant L'Eau de Vie Antoine and Quentin






Friday, March 15, 2019

Monaco and Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild in Cap Ferrat, France

Tom loves big boats.  Monaco has an abundance of mega yachts.  But his true love is sailing and Monaco doesn't have much in the way of sailboats.  It didn't stop us from admiring the amazing assortment of yachts tied up there.  What we found surprising was that the docks were not gated. We could literally walk right up to the boats.  


Monaco is built up against the cliffs in amazingly high density living.  This must be some of the most expensive real estate in the world.  What put Monaco on the map was the casino built in the 1800's  
A marina in Monaco

It's winter so there was a small ice skating rink for the children learning how to skate.  It's fun watching them holding onto a wooden animal as they figure out how to skate for the first time.

A little girl learning how to ice skate.

For those who already know how to skate there is a beautiful ice skating rink.
All ages were enjoying ice skating.


A statue honoring Prince Rainier III of Monaco 1923-2005 who married the American actress Grace Kelly
I wanted to see the Changing of the Guard at the Prince's Palace.  This takes place daily weather permitting.
Prince's Palace of Monaco home of Prince Albert and his wife.

Changing of the Guard
Prince Albert I was a visionary who felt that creating the Oceanographic Museum of Monaco would allow the study of the ocean and give us increased knowledge and focus on his desire to raise awareness, convince and enlist as many people as possible for the protection of the oceans.  Back in 1921 he gave a speech warning of the dangers of overfishing.  Prince Rainier III continued the quest to protect the oceans.  He was the one who invited Jacques-Yves Cousteau to become director of the Oceanographic Museum of Monaco.  Cousteau piloted the museum for 31 years until 1988.

The Oceanographic Museum was a highlight.  The exhibits were large, clean, educational, and the fish looked healthy.  It almost made me want to go scuba diving again.





A lovely meal in France is a galette with ham and cheese inside and a perfectly fried egg in the middle.  It looks like a crepe, but is it?  A galette is usually savory and made with buckwheat flour.  A crepe is a pancake made with wheat flour and served sweet.
A traditional galette for breakfast.
What to do when your toilet room is extra tiny?  Here is what one restaurant did.
The first time I've seen a toilet/sink combination.


A side street in Villefranche-sur-Mer

Looking down a little street in Villefranche-sur-Mer towards the ocean.
While I do enjoy going out for the occasional meal, we spend a lot of time eating in.  You can interpret that as meaning I do a lot of cooking.
Breakfast of avocado on a toasted baguette with garlic sautéed mushrooms and a fried egg on top.
From our villa we can walk to Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild at Cap Ferrat.  It's a long walk. A round trip is over 15,000 steps, 7.25 miles and 45 flights of stairs.  Our reward once we arrived at the Villa and gardens was a delightful lunch with a bottle of wine. What a way to celebrate life!
The entrance to the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
Lunch started with a bottle of wine.  We began our walk on the other side of the bay that you can see behind me.
The tea room is a lovely place to relax and enjoy a tasty meal.

Our lunch of seared tuna and salad. was perfect.
After lunch it was time to walk through part of the villa.  We wanted to enjoy the gardens even though it was too early in the season for the roses to be in bloom.  We were pleased to find that some of the gardens were in full bloom.
A perfect room to enjoy a meal for Beatrice, Baroness de Rothchild the French banking heiress who built and furnished her home.  

The home was designed to take advantage of the views.
The gorgeous gardens are the main draw for most visitors.  The garden is shaped like a ship, inspired by Beatrice de Rothchild's many ocean-liner trips.  She had 7 gardens recreated from locations located around the world, all with priceless sea views.  As you stroll through the gardens you will hear classical music playing and watch the fountains dancing to the tunes
Fountains dancing to classical music such as Beethoven.  

View of the fountains and garden leading to the back of the Villa.

Lovely sculptures are found placed strategically around the gardens.

Cactus bloom framing a view to the sea.

More sculptures.

Fountains, small pools and grotto's are tucked into the gardens.

In front of the Villa is this peaceful setting.

Some of the stairs we climbed for the return to our Villa.

More of our "walk."