Saturday, September 13, 2014

Barging Through the Burgundy Countryside



We drooled over grapes almost ready to be picked.
The Millers and McLean’s took Paris by storm.  Then the Hayes’ joined us to go barging thru the Burgundy countryside.

Once we were all together at the Paris train station it was off to Dijon.  Since we hadn’t been on board Rabelo in days it was time to market.  First stop was Grand Frais which has beautiful produce, a butcher, a cheese section, and extremely important…a boulangerie.  But we weren’t done.  We were missing some key items, so the next stop was E. LeClerc for wine and other sundry bits and pieces.
A pretty view walking thru a town.
With only 4 full days on Rabelo we wanted to show our friends as much as possible.  But sightseeing had to be balanced with the appropriate amount of time cruising.  After all, they can tour Burgundy on their own by car or bicycle, but most people don’t have the opportunity to see the countryside on a private barge.  Our days were full of cruising, touring, eating, drinking, eating, drinking and most important of all…being with great friends and time filled with laughter!  Lots of laughter!  What a wonderful way to enjoy our friendships!
Enjoying our fabulous dinner of fresh mussels on deck.
I felt like a cruise director with every day carefully scheduled to maximize our time together.  Our first morning we went to the Gaugry cheese factory.  Among the various cheeses they produce is Epoisse.  After touring the cheese factory it was time to move Rabelo.  We cruised to a village where we were able to walk around and see examples of the tile roofs famous in Burgundy.  We also viewed buildings from mediaeval times.  We enjoyed watching the children converging on their school.

The cheese factory Gaugry


Our friends came prepared.  They promised to be more than just "eye candy."
Who says I never allow anyone in my kitchen?
I found this little guy up on a building in a village we walked thru.
We were flashed!  It's always good to get off the boat and walk along the canal for a while.
There was a beautiful mosaic around the building of Moillard winery.

Clever painting on the exterior of a building.  One might think we were in the wine country.
 Our second day we spent the morning cruising, had lunch at Le Charlemagne which is a one star Michelin restaurant (which I would pass on in the future), went to Maillard to purchase some wines for Rabelo (without tasting) and then had a wonderful treat.  Thanks to our captain Julian we were able to get a private tour and tasting at the winery Domaine Gros Frere et Soeur.  Their grape vines are neighbors to the Romanee Conti vineyards, which are considered the most expensive red wines in the world.  Where we ate lunch a bottle of Romanee Conti was priced at $8000.00 U.S.D.!  What we bought from Domaine Gros Frere et Soeur was expensive for us but certainly not in that stratosphere.
We visited the famous Romanee Conti vinyards.
The redone floor in the tasting room of Domaine Gros Frere et Soeur.  Notice the grand piano behind our group. 

We had a fabulous tasting in the cellar.
Colette Richebourg of Domaine Gros Frere et Soeur was kind enough to guide us thru our tasting.  Since she spoke only French Julian was our translator.  Never have we seen a cellar or tasting room such as hers. The cellar we tasted in is over 300 years old.  In 2008 they added the lit flooring.  We asked what the hail did to their crops.  In the Cote-d’Or, the Cote de Nuits section lost 10% of their crop.  In Cote de Beaune they lost 70% of their grapes.  Since 1880 the winery has been in their current location.  Before that they were next door.  When I asked how many years her family had owned the winery she told me I would have to go to the cemetery to count the generations.


Our third day was Friday the best day to explore the covered market in Dijon, and I was on a mission.  Off we went by car for a tour.  From there we took our purchases (including the mussels that we wanted for dinner that night) and went for lunch at Au Clos Napoleon in the town of Fixin, which produces fabulous red wines.  We must like this restaurant because it is our third time having lunch there.  What isn’t to like when the food is excellent and the setting amongst the vineyards idyllic?

I counted out my Euro's to make sure I had enough to make the purchases we wanted.

They had some very old wine.

Ancien Vendangeoir des Moines de Saint Vivant de Vergy.  This is in the courtyard of Romanee Conti where I peeked in the gate.

Back to McDonalds.  Trying to stay connected.

Gotta love 'em.

Rabelo is changing her colors and looking goooood.
After touring the covered market, lunch in a vineyard, it was time to go cruising again.

Our last full day together was Saturday and we needed to keep the barge moving.  That allowed us to relax on board when we choose to, and walk along the canal for miles and miles.  There were so many happy pictures to choose from during the short time the McLeans and Hayes' were with us I could have filled a scrapbook.  I have included just a taste of what our few days together were like.


Parting is such sweet sorrow.

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