Tuesday, March 5, 2019

The Chagall Museum in Nice and Eze, France

I've always admired Marc Chagall but until we visited the Chagall Museum I had never understood his work.  I just knew his art was based primarily on the Bible.  The Marc Chagall national museum was inaugurated in July 1973 with Chagall present.  It was the first time a national museum had been devoted to a living artist.  The seventeen Biblical Message paintings are displayed according to the artist's instillation plan.  I recommend allowing enough time for the audio guide which gives a much greater depth of understanding to Chagall's paintings.  When you first arrive check when the movie of his life airs in your language.  That is worth viewing.  
The Creation of Man by Chagall

Moses Receiving the Tablets of the Law

Detail


Below is another detail of Moses Receiving the Tablets.

 The museum has some of his stained glass windows
Chagall stained glass window in the theatre.
 There is a little cafe on the grounds of the museum. While we were waiting for the movie about Chagall's life (it doesn't play midday), we had lunch there.  Our croque madame were excellent.

We drove to L'Hermitage Hotel and Restaurant in Eze to meet our new friends for lunch.  The waiter brought out a platter with the fresh fish of the day.  After a delicious and very healthy lunch we ordered pavlova for dessert.  I wasn't feeling so virtuous after that.
Octopus and a fresh fish were two of the options offered. 

I went with the fresh fish.  It was simply prepared and tasty.
Eze is a medieval stone village perched on a pinnacle high above the sea.  It is touristy and full of boutiques, perfume outlets and steep cobbled lanes with magnificent views.  I don't recommend driving there unless you go early in the day off season.  You can take a train to Eze-sur-Mer.  If you are athletic and have the time you can take the 1 1/2 hour hike up to Eze.  Otherwise there are buses to take you there.  Arriving early allows you to get the feel of the area before the crowds descend.  We were there on a magnificent winter day.  The views were breathtaking and there were a limited number of tourists.

A double fortified gateway dating from the 14th century is the only entrance to the old village.

Eze is full of charm

Every town and village has a monument to those whose lives were lost during the wars.

Looking up at the back side of the Exotic Garden of Eze.

A beautiful old cemetery in the medieval village of Ez
Another side of the cemetery.
The Eze church built in the 18th Century.  


The Eze church was built during Napoleonic times but is Classical and Baroque in style.  


Laundry day

Narrow paths lead through the village

It's winter but the residents still add splashes of color with newly planted flowers.

Color against the old stone walls.
 One of the main sights in Eze is the Jardin D'Exotique d'Eze or Exotic Garden.  We found it worth the price of admission.  Climbing up to the top gave us a panoramic view of the Riviera.

The southern part of the garden contains a huge cactus/succulent garden with plants from North America, Africa and Mexico.  These plants work well mixed in with Mediterranean plants.  The gardens were impressive. The northern side of the garden favors typical Mediterranean plants as well as exotics from New Zealand, China and South Africa.

In 2003 terra cotta and bronze sculptures were brought in.

Sculptures were created by Jean-Philippe Richard

Keep going to the top but stop along the way to look around.

Climb to the top to appreciate the vistas

You feel like you are on top of the world.
 We thought that lunch in Eze would be a disappointment since it seemed like just another tourist town (though certainly with plenty of charm).  We chose Le Nid d'Aigle Restaurant.  The salad of assorted small bites placed on socca (flatbread of chickpea flour) was delicious! I would return just for that plate.  I also tried socca beer which was good.  Chickpea flour has no gluten which is great for people who are gluten intolerant.  Chickpea flour is popular in the South of France.
We were surprised when we were invited  inside the restaurant see the view.  Had we known we would have requested an inside table.  But the weather was beautiful and we were happy to have eaten under a large old tree.


The closest decent market to Villefranche-sur-Mer is in Nice.  It's huge and has almost anything you might want.  They make fresh crepes while you wait.
I had to buy a package of freshly made crepes.
That's one big round of cheese!  It was difficult cutting into it.

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