Sunday, October 9, 2016

Digoin, Paray-Le-Monial, Genelard, France

An aperitif to begin a special meal.
It's Fall.  The crops have been harvested.  Red leaves tinge the plants along the canal.  There is a crispness in the air. A hint of what is to come.

I never tire of the spectacle of an aqueduct crossing over a river.  At home we think nothing of traveling through layer upon layer of freeways.  Yet it still amazes me to have one waterway traversing over another.
Leaving the Ville de Digoin on the Canal du Centre we are crossing over the Loire river.
Wooden River Boat
It is common courtesy when tying up your boat to leave as much room as possible for other boats to also tie up.  That doesn't always happen.
This boat was in the middle of a mooring.  Since no one was aboard we solved the problem by moving it!
Now our mooring was much better.  We had water and power here.
This barge Hensie, carrying a full cargo was told they would be able to carry their load to Paris via this canal.  Unfortunately the VNF (the organization that controls the waterways) didn't give them the full story.  They draw around 1.65 Meters while the depth of the canal at this bridge is 1.2 Meters.
Note the sign on the right of the bridge stating the depth of the canal.  Hensie on the left can't go any further on this canal.
There was an interesting discussion going on between the police and the barge owners.  There was no place to turn around and they couldn't go any further because the canal was too shallow for them.  We never heard the outcome of their dilemna.
We continue to soak up the peace, tranquility and beauty the french canals provide us.
The scenery continues to be breathtakingly beautiful with every imaginable shade of green.
We don't always see just verdant green vegetation.  Sometimes it's vista's like this power plant, or cement factories or grain silo's.  We see natural as well as industrial sights along the way.
Canals play an important roll in the life of the french people.  They provide space for recreation:  walking, biking, boating, fishing, exploring, or just resting.  They also played an important roll in the transportation history of France.  With the opening of canals they allowed goods to be moved safely, and away from the dangers of the sea, such as storms, reefs, wars and pirates.  The waterways were originally the preferred route for shipping raw materials such as wine, grain, hay, stone, coal and more.  The Burgundy Canal, a favorite for many was completed in 1832 and joined the Saone, the Loire and the Rhine rivers.

Barges are constructed in different sizes, Rabelo being the maximize size that fits through the standardized frycenate locks.  Originally, before the standardization of locks, there were smaller locks with canals that had much tighter turns.  It's been a challenge for us on some of these canals.  The locks may have been enlarged allowing us to fit, but the canals themselves were not modified accordingly.  For those who might wonder, there are areas where we simply don't fit, such as the beautiful Midi Canal.
This is a cut that Rabelo had to navigate.  Not easy at 130 feet.
We traveled to Geneland on the Canal du Centre in Burgundy.  This area had iron mines, stone quarries, and tile, mechanical and metallurgical factories.  Geneland is found between the mining region of Blanzy and the wooded countryside of Charolais.
Sample of what was manufactured in this area at one time.
Geneland was under the sea 190 million years ago.
These are fossils from the area that was originally under water.

A beautifully restored citroen.


This is an example of one method used in an attempt to keep the sides of the canals from collapsing.
Some canals are too shallow.  Perhaps they haven't been dredged in a while.  Perhaps they were never deep enough.  Or perhaps there simply isn't enough water to keep the canal at the proper level for large barges to travel.  We try to stay in the middle of the canal when we are cruising.  Even so we went aground quite a few times this season.
We moved over as far as we could to safely pass this commercial barge.  We couldn't move far enough to the side because we were aground.  This was an up close and personal meeting.  Nathalie and Alban hold bumpers between the boats trying to minimize any damage that might occur.  This was another commercial barge told by the VNF that they could safely get to Paris along this route. We warned them of the problems to come, but they didn't have a choice as there was no place to turn around.

We came across these old bridges on one of our walks.

Cloister garden at Paray-Le-Monial

Basilica of Paray-le Monial

Paray-le-Monial

The food in france continues to thrill us.  The wines are delicious, cheeses beyond counting and varieties from aged, hard, to triple cream melt in your mouth types.  The summer fruits were delicious and basically everywhere we went we enjoyed our meals.  I cook most of the time, but on the weekends I like a break from the kitchen.  I was surprised to find a Michelin starred restaurant in the small mining town of Paray-le-Monial.  Restaurant l'Aprostrophe is a gem.  I get the impression this isn't a big tourist destination and no one in the restaurant spoke any English...at all!  But we managed.  We always manage, somehow.

We've learned to start an evening out with an aperitif.  These little starters were lovely bursts of flavor.
The meal continued.
We ordered the chief's menu for the table.
Each course was lovely, served with imagination, creativity, presentation and also delicious.

Cheese anyone?  It's hard to resist the cheese cart.
I was full but still had to sample a few cheeses, some of which I didn't recognize.
Dessert didn't disappoint.

And then came more sweets to sweeten the end of the evening.

Thursday, September 29, 2016

Roanne, Chateau de la Roche, Marcigny, France

Chateau de la Roche
We have driven to Roanne before, but this was our first time cruising there on Rabelo.  We didn't have enough time there to properly explore the city.  We will definitely return for another visit.  There were permanent residents that we would enjoy spending more time getting to know.  The Port Captain had a little side business selling wine.  His messy, crowded, tiny office filled with boxes, books, and a bicycle was too warm for properly storing wine.  We took a chance and bought a couple of his Rose's at 6 euro a bottle.  We liked it well enough to return for a few more bottles.  It was fine for drinking at lunch, outside on the deck, seated under the umbrella, on a hot day.  That is exactly what we did.  

Normally we pick up our guests at a train station near where we are moored.  With the train strikes going on all summer we recommended that people rent a car and drive to us.  This time it turned out to be a challenge.  Eventually Tom found Jerry and Arlene so they could follow him back to the boat in Roanne.  This was their 6th visit in 5 years.  We had a slower paced trip this time.  With the weather as hot as it was, running around trying to see new sights was challenging.
Welcoming Jerry and Arlene with a few appetizers and champagne.

It's a treat having lunch on deck while cruising.  We had magnificent blue skies with a few fluffy clouds, surrounded by lush green foliage.
Enjoying lunch on deck drinking Rose wine (except for Tom who doesn't drink and drive).
Lunch of cold cucumber soup, smoked salmon on baguettes, melon and a nice chilled rose from the port captain.

The earliest written records of the Chateau de la Roche date from 1260.  It was built on a rocky platform overlooking the Loire river from a height of 30 meters.  The fortress allowed a watch to be kept and tolls to be collected for the County of Forez.  The building suffered floods from the Loire more often than attacks from enemies.  In 1996 it was fully restored.  Unfortunately it has been affected by floodwater in 2003 and 2008.

Chateau de la Roche in the background


Chateau de la Roche from another direction.

It's always a treat when we can walk along a canal.
This canal had a current of 1.5 mph.  When we were trying to go against the current it was challenging when we were traveling at a speed of 4-5 knots.
We found this charming slug on one of our walks.
The lock was on one side of the tow path and the river on the other side.

There was an old bridge crossing the canal on one of our morning walks.

We entered a very deep lock.

Another meal on deck

Fig and tomato salad

Duck with balsamic sauce and sweet potatoes 
We drove to Ville de Marcigny to view the Abbaye de Charlieu built in 1769.
These are the remains of the fortifications that joined the Abbaye.

It's hard to believe Rabelo fits into this lock.  Well, we barely fit.

The Little Dutch Boy doesn't have enough fingers to plug all the leaks in this lock.

The view exiting a lock

Jerry, Arlene and Tom enjoying the sights as we cruised along the Canal Roanne a Digoin.

And then it was time to say au revoir to Jerry and Arlene...until the next time.

Monday, September 26, 2016

Briennone, France



Early morning view of the church and Gite from across the canal.
Detail of the typical Burgundian tile roof.
Charming looking Gite next to the church.
The interior of the church was unusual
Another detail of the church interior.
We don't normally see such ornate church interiors.
Don't they look sweet.

We had beautiful walks along the canal.

Moss and weeds growing in the canal.

We saw this colorful character fishing along the canal.
During the week I cook every meal.  I haven't learned the art of "take out" or "prepared" foods.  When the weekend comes I'm ready for a night out with my honey.  Sometimes the meals are romantic and extra special.  Other times I'm just happy not to be cooking and cleaning up afterwards.  This particular evening turned out to be a wonderful surprise as well as a treat.  We drove further than expected to find Le Petit Prince Restaurant in a tiny village.  Every course was amazing as well as a work of art.  Afterwards, the owner proudly showed us his old and new wine cellars under the restaurant.
Flavorful little bites to tease the palette 

My main course with lobster

Tom's dish was equally beautiful

Desserts were imaginative, visually attractive and delicious as well.

My sweetheart with a homemade lollipop 


The cellar path was lined with wine corks.  
 After such a romantic and special meal it's all downhill.  Still, I didn't have to market, cook or clean up afterwards.
This is what happens from too much spaghetti.

Many of you who know me are aware that I love shooting and used to compete.  On one of our walks we found a shooting range.  I wish I could have joined them for a round or two.

I didn't know shooting ranges existed in France.
New style wine bottle holders.  A better use for all those stiletto's sitting in in the back of women's closets.