Thursday, October 20, 2016

Le Creusot, Montceau Les Mines, Chateau de Gremolles, Chateau de la Verrier, France


Enjoying lunch on deck with Edy and Sal
We schedule our Rabelo guests normally two years in advance.  Unfortunately we all know about the best laid plans.  Our dear friends Fran and Ed had to cancel the night before flying to Europe.  We were still fortunate enough to have Sal and Edy join us.  Our goal was to introduce them to a part of France beyond Paris and the big museums everyone visits.  Barging is about peaceful canals and quaint little towns and villages.  It is also about drinking wonderful wines, feasting on the many cheeses and overdoing the breads and pastries.

Someone got creative and used a Scania truck cab as a pilot house for a barge.

When Edy and Sal arrived we started with a proper french Miller reception along with a bottle of champagne.  It's what we call grazing...cheeses, pate's vegetables, salads, and more.
Sunday morning it was time to go sightseeing.  Having gotten off to a slow start, when we arrived in Le Creusot we wanted lunch.  The problem is that in France very little is open on Sunday.  This town was no exception.  We found a couple of places that were open but either full, or about to close.  The only place we could go that was open was a Chinese buffet.  Honestly, how could we take our friends out for Chinese food their first day in France?!?  We don't even eat Chinese food at home.  It was embarrassing.  But we were hungry and decided to make the best of the situation.  The food wound up being good, plentiful, and fresh.
Edy showing off her first course at the Chinese restaurant we went to for Sunday lunch.
Sal looks like he is trying to decide where to begin his meal

An option was stir fry.  Pick your vegetables, fish, meats and have it cooked to order.
A small sample of the Chinese buffet

In Montceau Les Mines is a church which had a beautiful display of priests robes, an Ostensorium plus various other religious objects.
Montceau-les-Mines church displayed a Ostensorium (also known as a monstrance) is the vessel used in Roman Catholic, Old Catholic and Angelican churches for the more convenient exhibition of some object of piety

One of the beautiful robes on display

The stained glass windows were modern.  This one looked to me like a patchwork quilt.
Another lovely stained glass window

While walking around the town we found a Russian shop with this in the window.  How about a shot of vodka?
Chateau de la Verrerie
Always searching for new things to see we took Sal and Edy to The Chateau de la Verrerie in Le Creusot.  It was originally a crystal factory in Sevres, which was transferred to Le Creusot in 1784 because it was closer to where they could obtain coal.  In 1833 Baccarat bought the factory but never operated it.  Eventually it was sold to the Schneider family who made it into their home.  Various foreign heads of state visited the chateau while it was the Schneider home.  Unfortunately during the Second World War it suffered significant damage during the German occupation and the Allied bombing.  In 1969 the city of Le Creusot bought the chateau and its park and turned it into a museum.



At Chateau de la Verrerie in Montcenis the old furnaces for making glass were left standing.

Chateau de la Verrerie

The chateau which was originally a glass factory but is now a museum had a beautiful display of the crystal they once made.

Another example of what was once made here.

A drawing of the factory in its day.

One of the rooms showing the furniture of when the Schneider family lived there.

We wanted to give Edy and Sal the complete barging experience which includes a walk in the country.
We took Edy and Sal for a walk and introduced them to the beautiful Charolais cows of France.
Fishing is a popular pastime in France.

Chateau de Germolles

In 1380 Phillip the Bold gave to his wife, Margaret of  Flanders the stronghold of Germolles.  She transformed it into a luxurious and rustic home.  It is the only palatial and princely residence of that time in France but also the only country estate of the Dukes of Burgundy that has been preserved so extensively.  We were fortunate enough to be given a tour by one of the owners.  We viewed the entrance towers, the chapel, the XIII Century storeroom, the ducal family's living environment in the cloakroom of Marguerite de Baviere with XIV Century mural paintings.  It isn’t far from Beaune and Chalon-sur-Saone.  
Chateau de Germolles two entrance towers

The owner of Chateau de Germolles showing us the storeroom.  When his family purchased the chateau this storeroom was filled with rubbel.  He gave us a wonderful tour of his family home.

The chapel windows

A reminder of WWII where a german unfortunately defaced a chapel wall
This face remains in Chateau de Germolles
Samples of tiles found during the restoration of the chateau

Tom is always happy wine tasting.
Checking out the barrel room of Mersault where we sampled their wines.

A plane crossing the moon during the day.


In Creusot, Montceau we found this interesting Villa Perrusson which is being restored.  Next time we are in the area we will take a tour.

Sunday, October 9, 2016

Digoin, Paray-Le-Monial, Genelard, France

An aperitif to begin a special meal.
It's Fall.  The crops have been harvested.  Red leaves tinge the plants along the canal.  There is a crispness in the air. A hint of what is to come.

I never tire of the spectacle of an aqueduct crossing over a river.  At home we think nothing of traveling through layer upon layer of freeways.  Yet it still amazes me to have one waterway traversing over another.
Leaving the Ville de Digoin on the Canal du Centre we are crossing over the Loire river.
Wooden River Boat
It is common courtesy when tying up your boat to leave as much room as possible for other boats to also tie up.  That doesn't always happen.
This boat was in the middle of a mooring.  Since no one was aboard we solved the problem by moving it!
Now our mooring was much better.  We had water and power here.
This barge Hensie, carrying a full cargo was told they would be able to carry their load to Paris via this canal.  Unfortunately the VNF (the organization that controls the waterways) didn't give them the full story.  They draw around 1.65 Meters while the depth of the canal at this bridge is 1.2 Meters.
Note the sign on the right of the bridge stating the depth of the canal.  Hensie on the left can't go any further on this canal.
There was an interesting discussion going on between the police and the barge owners.  There was no place to turn around and they couldn't go any further because the canal was too shallow for them.  We never heard the outcome of their dilemna.
We continue to soak up the peace, tranquility and beauty the french canals provide us.
The scenery continues to be breathtakingly beautiful with every imaginable shade of green.
We don't always see just verdant green vegetation.  Sometimes it's vista's like this power plant, or cement factories or grain silo's.  We see natural as well as industrial sights along the way.
Canals play an important roll in the life of the french people.  They provide space for recreation:  walking, biking, boating, fishing, exploring, or just resting.  They also played an important roll in the transportation history of France.  With the opening of canals they allowed goods to be moved safely, and away from the dangers of the sea, such as storms, reefs, wars and pirates.  The waterways were originally the preferred route for shipping raw materials such as wine, grain, hay, stone, coal and more.  The Burgundy Canal, a favorite for many was completed in 1832 and joined the Saone, the Loire and the Rhine rivers.

Barges are constructed in different sizes, Rabelo being the maximize size that fits through the standardized frycenate locks.  Originally, before the standardization of locks, there were smaller locks with canals that had much tighter turns.  It's been a challenge for us on some of these canals.  The locks may have been enlarged allowing us to fit, but the canals themselves were not modified accordingly.  For those who might wonder, there are areas where we simply don't fit, such as the beautiful Midi Canal.
This is a cut that Rabelo had to navigate.  Not easy at 130 feet.
We traveled to Geneland on the Canal du Centre in Burgundy.  This area had iron mines, stone quarries, and tile, mechanical and metallurgical factories.  Geneland is found between the mining region of Blanzy and the wooded countryside of Charolais.
Sample of what was manufactured in this area at one time.
Geneland was under the sea 190 million years ago.
These are fossils from the area that was originally under water.

A beautifully restored citroen.


This is an example of one method used in an attempt to keep the sides of the canals from collapsing.
Some canals are too shallow.  Perhaps they haven't been dredged in a while.  Perhaps they were never deep enough.  Or perhaps there simply isn't enough water to keep the canal at the proper level for large barges to travel.  We try to stay in the middle of the canal when we are cruising.  Even so we went aground quite a few times this season.
We moved over as far as we could to safely pass this commercial barge.  We couldn't move far enough to the side because we were aground.  This was an up close and personal meeting.  Nathalie and Alban hold bumpers between the boats trying to minimize any damage that might occur.  This was another commercial barge told by the VNF that they could safely get to Paris along this route. We warned them of the problems to come, but they didn't have a choice as there was no place to turn around.

We came across these old bridges on one of our walks.

Cloister garden at Paray-Le-Monial

Basilica of Paray-le Monial

Paray-le-Monial

The food in france continues to thrill us.  The wines are delicious, cheeses beyond counting and varieties from aged, hard, to triple cream melt in your mouth types.  The summer fruits were delicious and basically everywhere we went we enjoyed our meals.  I cook most of the time, but on the weekends I like a break from the kitchen.  I was surprised to find a Michelin starred restaurant in the small mining town of Paray-le-Monial.  Restaurant l'Aprostrophe is a gem.  I get the impression this isn't a big tourist destination and no one in the restaurant spoke any English...at all!  But we managed.  We always manage, somehow.

We've learned to start an evening out with an aperitif.  These little starters were lovely bursts of flavor.
The meal continued.
We ordered the chief's menu for the table.
Each course was lovely, served with imagination, creativity, presentation and also delicious.

Cheese anyone?  It's hard to resist the cheese cart.
I was full but still had to sample a few cheeses, some of which I didn't recognize.
Dessert didn't disappoint.

And then came more sweets to sweeten the end of the evening.

Thursday, September 29, 2016

Roanne, Chateau de la Roche, Marcigny, France

Chateau de la Roche
We have driven to Roanne before, but this was our first time cruising there on Rabelo.  We didn't have enough time there to properly explore the city.  We will definitely return for another visit.  There were permanent residents that we would enjoy spending more time getting to know.  The Port Captain had a little side business selling wine.  His messy, crowded, tiny office filled with boxes, books, and a bicycle was too warm for properly storing wine.  We took a chance and bought a couple of his Rose's at 6 euro a bottle.  We liked it well enough to return for a few more bottles.  It was fine for drinking at lunch, outside on the deck, seated under the umbrella, on a hot day.  That is exactly what we did.  

Normally we pick up our guests at a train station near where we are moored.  With the train strikes going on all summer we recommended that people rent a car and drive to us.  This time it turned out to be a challenge.  Eventually Tom found Jerry and Arlene so they could follow him back to the boat in Roanne.  This was their 6th visit in 5 years.  We had a slower paced trip this time.  With the weather as hot as it was, running around trying to see new sights was challenging.
Welcoming Jerry and Arlene with a few appetizers and champagne.

It's a treat having lunch on deck while cruising.  We had magnificent blue skies with a few fluffy clouds, surrounded by lush green foliage.
Enjoying lunch on deck drinking Rose wine (except for Tom who doesn't drink and drive).
Lunch of cold cucumber soup, smoked salmon on baguettes, melon and a nice chilled rose from the port captain.

The earliest written records of the Chateau de la Roche date from 1260.  It was built on a rocky platform overlooking the Loire river from a height of 30 meters.  The fortress allowed a watch to be kept and tolls to be collected for the County of Forez.  The building suffered floods from the Loire more often than attacks from enemies.  In 1996 it was fully restored.  Unfortunately it has been affected by floodwater in 2003 and 2008.

Chateau de la Roche in the background


Chateau de la Roche from another direction.

It's always a treat when we can walk along a canal.
This canal had a current of 1.5 mph.  When we were trying to go against the current it was challenging when we were traveling at a speed of 4-5 knots.
We found this charming slug on one of our walks.
The lock was on one side of the tow path and the river on the other side.

There was an old bridge crossing the canal on one of our morning walks.

We entered a very deep lock.

Another meal on deck

Fig and tomato salad

Duck with balsamic sauce and sweet potatoes 
We drove to Ville de Marcigny to view the Abbaye de Charlieu built in 1769.
These are the remains of the fortifications that joined the Abbaye.

It's hard to believe Rabelo fits into this lock.  Well, we barely fit.

The Little Dutch Boy doesn't have enough fingers to plug all the leaks in this lock.

The view exiting a lock

Jerry, Arlene and Tom enjoying the sights as we cruised along the Canal Roanne a Digoin.

And then it was time to say au revoir to Jerry and Arlene...until the next time.