Dijon and Onward: Fleurey-sur-Ouche, Velars-sur-Ouche, Pont de Panay, Lantenay in the Ouche Valley

We always enjoy our time in Dijon.  We went to pick up my latest painting at the framers.  This piece was inspired by Edvard Munch's painting The Scream.  It was Tom's birthday present as he had requested it.  Tom also needed a haircut.  We found a place, took a chance and made an appointment to return in an hour.  Rachel gave Tom such a great cut that I decided to get my hair cut as well.

Showing off my new hair cut.

Tom shows off his new hair cut.

We always tie up at the same place in Dijon.  Our view of the island and wildlife in the marina makes it worth staying a few extra days.

Our view on deck.

Every year we apply for VISA's to stay in France for 6 months.  We must present a letter from the Sheriff's office that we are not criminals.  We must have proof of health insurance coverage abroad.  We must prove that we won't be a financial burden to the country, etc, etc, etc.  This time we wanted to stay 19 months.  It is a process.  We began with a one year VISA which was issued by the French Consulate in Los Angeles.  The process was the same as a six month VISA, which we have done a half dozen times. We are pro's at getting VISA's from the French Consulate in Los Angeles.  We just need to read the requirements carefully because they always make little changes.  They know us now at the Consulate.  Once in France, because we had applied for a one year VISA, we were required to present ourself to the proper government office within 90 days of our arrival.  Appointments are necessary.  That interview went well.  From there we made another appointment for a physical which included a chest x-ray.  That was a fascinating morning.  We stood in line with all the immigrants seeking residency in France.  We had our chest x-rays taken and waited some more.  Then we were called into an office for an interview and "physical" which involves answering questions confirming that we are in good health.   Everything went smoothly, and we were deemed healthy.  We eventually did receive our one year VISA.  That was exciting.  But we want to stay beyond our one year VISA.  We will again present ourselves to the Prefecture de la Cote d'Or in January to extend our VISA for another year.  For anyone interested in obtaining a one year VISA I recommend you speak French fluently or have someone who can come with you to interpret.  Fortunately, our captain is French and a tremendous help in guiding us through the bureaucracy.  

Walking around Dijon we need to keep our eyes open as there are such interesting buildings.  Sometimes the views are partially hidden behind other structures.

One of the sights on the side of a building in Dijon.

If you are looking for expensive American junk food this is the place to go.

On our walk from the boat into Dijon

Our favorite bakery in Dijon is Mon Gran Pere.  Every day we walked by numerous bakeries to go here because everything they make is so good.

Rabelo in a lock.  It's a tight fit.

When Rabelo is in a lock there are only inches to spare.

We had an amazing meal at Fleurey-sur-Ouche, Burgundy.  I only managed to photograph the starters.

Tom's calamari starter

My starter was made-in-house:  foie de canard.  Melt in your mouth delicious.

Every town and village has a monument to honor those lost during WWI and WWII.  The French have not forgotten what war does to families, villages, towns, and country.  I am going to start posting pictures of more monuments.  They touch my heart.  We always stop to read the names of the fallen.  We've see first hand how all the men in countless families were wiped out.  No one wins with war.

Fleurey-sur-Ouche War Memorial

A wonderful walk along the Burgundy Canal

A clever painting on the side of the VNF building

A private Chateau in Lantenay

We never tire of the scenery as we walk along the Burgundy Canal

It's always fun seeing friends as we cruise along the canal.  Apres Tout is a hotel barge which provides their guests with the experience of a lifetime.  Scenery, gourmet food, amazing cheeses, wines, and interesting tours with a private guide for up to three couples.  No, I don't get a commission for encouraging you to check them out.

The Burgundy Canal is beautiful.

We found cherry trees and picked enough to bake Cherry Clafoutis.  Gatherer Tom here.  We also marked on our charts where the pear and apple trees are to be found.  In the fall we'll be picking those fruits as well.

Springtime and we are seeing all the new families

We always need to be alert.  It is unusual for us to see a rider on horseback.  What a beautiful place to ride.

The golden afternoon light in the countryside of France

In the Ouche Valley we stopped for a few nights at an anchorage we'd never been to before, but passed by many times.  We had to reserve a table for dinner in advance.  For €17.50 you get an Entree, a Plat and Dessert.  That night there was only the owner doing everything herself.  While the menu was very limited (and she accidentally served me the wrong meal), it was all delicious and we enjoyed the evening.  You can see Rabelo tied up in the background.

Philippe joined us for dinner.  It's a lovely spot.

Boeuf Soleil.  The starter with a tomato salad on top was light and perfect for a warm evening.

Bouleltte Maison Salade.  I hadn't ordered the meatball but was glad that's what came.  It was probably the best meatball I've ever had.

My latest work based on Edvard Munch's The Scream.  Oil paint and then machine stitched on top.

Cruising the Burgundy Canal from St Jean de Losne to Dijon, France

My tomato plants went crazy in my absence.  Time for a major pruning.

It was wonderful being back on Rabelo.  My garden missed me.  The tomatoes  and herbs needed tending.  Many plants had drowned with all the rain we had while in Chamonix. 

 It felt good being able to cook in a real kitchen again. Everyone that comes aboard Rabelo is always impressed with how complete my kitchen is, especially the French.

We discovered ripe cherry trees along the canal.  We needed two cups so I could make my cherry clafoutis. Philippe was an enthusiastic cherry picker.  We didn't pick enough cherries at the first stop, so at another lock we found more trees.  There we found both tart and Queen Anne cherries (which weren't ripe yet).  The tart cherries were so ripe the juice was running down my arms.  When friends (Pete and Amanda come for dinner tomorrow night they get the rewards of our labors.

Tom anad Philippe did a great job of picking cherries.

We are serious about our cherry picking!  We brought out a ladder from Rabelo and Philippe went up the tree to pick more cherries.

We found two different types of cherries.

Langre Tart for lunch.

The reward for picking lots of cherries.  Cherry Clafoutis for our friends coming to dinner.

Tom picked up some bicycle riders along the way.  A father with his two daughters were watching Rabelo going through a lock.  Tom couldn't resist inviting them for a ride.  We brought them on board along with their bicycles.  Tom even let the two young girls drive.  They were a delightful family.

Manon driving Rabelo while Clementine and their father Mickael watch.

I've been reading about the butter shortage in France.  We've now experienced it first hand!  Butter is very important to the french.   They normally consume 18 pounds of butter per person per year.  Normally the butter aisle in the markets are huge.  There are various brands and types of butter.  There is the sweet butter (deux) which has no salt.  Then there is the demi-sel which is lightly salted.  Finally there is the salted butter...my favorite.  The salt for the salted butter comes from different areas.  It's the salt crystals that give the wonderful little bursts of flavor.  It's tough deciding between the butter from Noirmoutier or from Guerande.

So why the butter shortage?  Now that fat is no longer considered the nutritional enemy it once was, there is an increased worldwide demand for butter.  Producers are struggling to keep up.  Developing countries and some new countries (such as China) are now importing butter.  In France part of the problem is the rigid pricing and distribution system.  Supermarkets are refusing to pay higher prices because the butter prices are fixed annually.  That means the suppliers will sell their butter abroad.  I've read that there were emergency negotiations and the retailers are accepting an increase in prices.  I personally am still seeing half empty butter shelves.  Sacré buerre!

Which salted butter is better?

 May was an interesting month in France for weather.  The most lightning strikes in history were recorded!  155,000 bursts.

A beautiful day for cruising along the Burgundy Canal.  The pilot house is lowered as we prepare to go under a bridge and into a lock.

 We saw the French air force practicing as we cruised by their airfield.  It was noisy but exciting to watch.

Lock 62 with the French Air Force practicing.  You can see them just above the lock house.

Ecluse (Lock) 62 has an amazing museum created by someone called Alain.  We could visit at no charge so I rapidly jumped off Rabelo as she was going through the lock, found Alain (?) and was allowed in to tour the museum.  He had an extensive collection of WWI and WWII momentos plus so much more.  He presented a beautiful history of the lock house which also meant the surrounding area.

Our invitation to view Le Museum d' Alain.

A collection of very old original edition books.

An eclectic collection of miniature vehicles.

The museum has items I couldn't understand.

Old wine bottles throughout the museum, some from Ecluse 62

Honestly the collection was endless.

Includes were old photographs.  Here were two fisherman showing off their catch of the day from the canal.

There were touching photographs.  Here were newlyweds in front of the ecluse (perhaps their home?)

A view of the museum from only part way in.

The Ecluse as it is today.  The museum is around the back of the ecluse.

 Continuing along the Burgundy Canal was an exhibit of international artists.

Artwork from various artists displayed along the canal.

An expert wood carver displaying his art.

The lock keeper is opening one of the doors to the lock for us to continue our journey.

The totem pole we last saw being carved is now proudly displayed.