Friday, April 26, 2019

More of Nice, Lunch at Beaulieu-sur-Mer and the Lovely Town of Villefranche-sur-Mer, France

View from Castle Hill looking down onto the Port to the east.  The interesting part of this picture is the yacht below with its own swimming pool and helicopter landing pad.
We decided to do some more exploring of Nice.  We climbed up to Castle Hill which is the only hill in an otherwise flat city.  While there is a hill, there is no longer a castle.  Instead you will find a playground, a CafĂ© and a Jewish Cemetery.
Part of the climb up to Castle Hill.  A war memorial is on the right.
A church alongside the stairway



Magnificent views of Nice are to be found at the  top of Castle Hill

Jewish cemetery on Castle Hill built in the 1700s

The plots are tightly packed with family members buried together.


The remains of an ancient fort can be viewed on Castle Hill
We found this wonderful falafel hole in the wall restaurant Le Falafel which I liked so much we ate there three times.
They do a good business of sit down (outside) and take away.  All the ingredients are freshly made.
Falafel plate I had one day.
Their pitas were as good as their falafel plates.  We chose all the salads and sauces we wanted inside.  It was a delicious lunch.  Afterwards we went to Glacier Rossetti which is my new favorite ice cream parlor.  No, I didn't eat both pitas.  One was Tom's  
A popular pass time in Nice is to walk the Promenade des Anglais.  This is their four mile seafront promenade designed for strolling, admiring the blue of the Mediterranean, sitting on a blue seat with your feet up on the guard rail, or have a drink or meal on the sand.
Picturesque restaurants and bars are set up along the beach

Their famous blue chair in art form.

View of the promenade des Anglais

Another view of the Promenade des Anglais

Repairing a building

I'm not sure this would be allowed in the USA
Using Villefranche-sur-Mer as our home base enabled us to take long beautiful walks to nearby towns for lunch.  This was our view walking to Beaulieu-sur-Mer.
View walking to Beaulieu-sur-Mer
We walked to La Pignaelle Restaurant where we had an excellent lunch with service to match.
I had the duck confit which was perfectly prepared with delicious sides.

Tom had the duck breast which was exquisite.  
I keep posting pictures of Villefranche-sur-Mer because it is such a picturesque location.  We were fortunate enough to have perfect weather which allowed us to enjoy the atmosphere and views along the quay.
Lunch on the quay is popular with the weather being ideal.

Poster kids for Villefranche-sur-Mer

One day we sat in the sun enjoying an Aperol Spritz.

It doesn't get much better than this.











Friday, April 19, 2019

Biot: The Glass Blowing Capital of France

Biot was given the label of Arts and Crafts village in 1997 for glass blowing.  With 60 years of tradition it has become the capital of contemporary glass blowing in France.  Besides being able to watch glass blowing,  jewelry makers have also chosen Biot as their place to live and work.

Windows always fascinate me.  Particularly when people make the effort to decorate them and show their own personal style.
We explored the narrow side streets of Biot.
Moving away from the commercial main street we found the residential neighborhood.  Here the residents relieve the starkness of the stone buildings with a myriad of potted plants.


The ancient archways create interest.


Here is another narrow residential street.  Imagine having to carry your groceries from the closest parking lot, which could be hundreds of yards away.  We did see motorcycles parked in front of numerous homes.

There are many stairs to navigate throughout the town.

The home owners work hard to create a pleasing atmosphere.

Ancient portal from 1565.


 I think it's mandatory to visit at least one glass blowing factory while in Biot.  We went to La Verrerie de Biot.  Watching the employees working was like viewing a ballet.  Each focused on their individual projects, yet came together when needed for two person jobs.

Part of the factory experience was a museum.  We weren't allowed to take pictures.  Inside were amazing works created by some of the best glass artists in the world.  That alone made the visit worth the drive.
The first step is pulling molten glass out of the oven.

Some pieces require two people.  Here hot glass is added to the pitcher to create a handle.

This is the factory producing items for sale in the gift shop.

Each glass fish is individually made.  It involves many steps and is surprisingly time consumingWe found ourselves spending more time than anticipated watching the glassblowers at work as we found the whole process fascinating.
Walking around Biot we worked up an appetite.  Lunch was at Auberge Du Vieux Village Creperie where we had an excellent salad and delicious crepe.  
Friday, March 22, 2019

Nice and Cap Ferrat, France

Sunrise, sunset, airplanes, helicopters, seagulls soaring.  
A ferry passing in the distance 
Sailboats gently leaning, sails open to catch the wind.  
Palm trees swaying in a gentle breeze.  
Clouds drifting across the sky.
A lighthouse casts its beam across the sea
Late afternoon clouds turning pink 
Casting their warm glow over all,
Turning the sea purple.
Lunch outside on a sunny, windy day at the Cap Ferrat marina.  Enjoying life!
View from Villefranche-sur-Mer to Cap Ferrat
There is a beautiful walk around the point of Cap Ferrat.  Our reward was lunch at the lovely port village of St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat.  Some of the wealthiest people in the world have homes in Cap Ferrat. Because it was mid week, off season and breezy we had the place almost exclusively to ourselves.
The lighthouse at the point of Cap Ferrat
We walked on a path along the rugged coastline.
Some clever graffiti
We are fortunate that Nice is a short bus ride from Villefranche-sur-Mer.  That saves us from dealing with traffic, narrow and/or one way streets, suicidal motorcycle riders, lack of parking and the stress of a crowded busy city.  Each time we visit we check out a few more sights.  

Cimiez is a neighborhood in Nice with Roman ruins.  We included this in our visit to the Matisse Museum and Cimiez cemetery.
A small section of the Roman ruins.
 We visited the Matisse Museum.  There were samples of various periods of his work.  I was underwhelmed by the pieces shown.  Many were of his earlier works.  The best part of the visit (for me) was a short video showing him painting a face.  It was a brilliant example of how he created a face with just a few brushstrokes.  We missed the tour in English which I believe would have made a difference in understanding his growth.  We hope to visit the cathedral in Vence which showcases the work of his final years.
The Matisse Museum which is a 17th Century villa where Matisse lived and worked during his final years.

Bronze by Matisse

A simple face using lines we see in many of his paintings


A delicious salad with rocket, roasted peppers and eggplant, prosciutto, melted brie and a drizzle of reduced balsamic vinegar 
 Our ticket to the Matisse museum also allowed us entrance to the Modern and Contemporary Art Museum.  We understood the museum featured American and European-American artists from the 1960's to 1970's.  What we found were artists who at some point in their lives had lived in Nice.  It's important to be exposed to different types of art. I, unfortunately could not appreciate what some of these artists were attempting to convey.  Perhaps someone knowledgable in that time period could have shed some light on the art.  I found some works disturbing, (which I assume was what the artist wanted) and other works of no artistic value (again my opinion).

Bernar Venet established himself as a major figure of conceptual art.  He used scientific, architectural and mathematical subjects to create his work.

Artist Bernar Venet

Artist Bernar Venet
Jim Dine is an American pop artist sometimes considered to be part of the Neo-Dada movement. He was known for painted canvases with ordinary objects from everyday life.
Hard Hearts by Jim Dine  5 panels, double sided oil and collage on wood.

Detail of Hard Hearts
Arman (Armand Fernandez) created large works of art made of mechanical parts such as gaskets, self locking pliers, or cooking utensils like spoons, forks...
The Birds by Arman showed how metal pliers translate into a cloud of birds.

Detail of The Birds

Artist Niki de Saint Phalle created work that did resonate with me.  That it was disturbing most likely is what she wanted her viewers to feel.  Niki de Saint Phalle created altars and cathedrals that she would shoot at and destroy.  She mixed symbols of violence with religious items. 
.  Altar O.A.S. is the name of this piece.  O.A.S. was a right wing terrorist movement supporting the French invasion of Algeria at the time she created this.

Detail of Altar O.A.S.
 After trying to figure out the meaning of the art we viewed at MAMAC it was time for lunch.  L'Eau de Vie is a must for people visiting Nice.  Their prix fix lunch was affordable and delicious.  The staff were knowledgable, attentive and helpful without being overbearing.  Their lunches are designed for the local business people who have only a short time to dine but want a decent meal.

I thought I could translate what we ate into English, but that was impossible.  Instead you can see what our meal was.

Oeuf Parfait is a long cooked egg with amazing tastes in every bite.

Ravigote de Coquillages

Carpaccio de boeuf, sauce pesto coriandre.  Raw slices of beef with olive oil, pesto sauce, parmesan and fresh coriander.  FeuilletĂ© de courage which was a flaky crust topped with caramelized onions and baked with marinated seasoned squash.
L'Eau de Vie is less than a year old and started by two childhood friends fulfilling their dreams.  They are already rated number three by Trip Advisor in Nice.  Quentin is the creative chief and Antoine is the public face of the restaurant.  They are a great team.  We are looking forward to returning for dinner soon.
Owners of restaurant L'Eau de Vie Antoine and Quentin