Low Bridge, Everybody Down: Barging in Europe

They told us how beautiful the Canal du Nivernais was. In the next breath they said we were too large. That we could never get Rabelo down the canal. We wanted to experience the Nivernais. "They" didn't have our captain. In the end we decided to trust our captain and ignore all the charts and naysayers. We were in for an experience...and an adventure. But isn't that what life is all about?

Every afternoon when the cruising is done we go for a walk. One of the great things about our travels is being able to learn first hand about local history. Vermenton played an important role in french history because of their logging. They didn't want people to forget the importance of this area so as we walked through a park we read signs with pictures detailing their logging history.

We found this interesting front yard as we started our exploration of Vermenton.

These pictures explain what was going on. The Morvan region of France was originally covered by forest. Vermenton was at the heart of the logging industry from the mid 1500's until the late 1800's.

The scenery was spectacular with forests, grasslands, white cows, and sky reflecting on the water.

As we cruised further along the bridges were getting lower. It was becoming more difficult to fit under the bridges. At one point we waited while the lock keepers lowered the water level for us.

We just made it under this bridge. The "W" is a reminder that barges need to remove their wheel in order to fit under the bridge.

We had to be alert at all times. We weren't ready to go white water rafting.

Floating logs could pose a threat.

At Les Rochers du Saussios we discovered spectacular cliffs which are popular with rock climbers.

Tom decided we needed to climb to the top. Yes, the views were spectacular, but getting up there was challenging. Normally if I want to go one way, we do the opposite and it's fine. This time Tom didn't listen to me (I was pretty sure we were going the wrong way) and he found the more difficult way up. Ok, normally Tom IS right in following his instincts when it comes to directions. I get to be right once in a long while since we know I am directionally challenged. That's Rabelo down there.

Once at the top we could see a long ways away. The forests that were cut down for logging have since grown back.

While I do a great deal of cooking on board Rabelo we do go out occasionally. We ate at Au Fil du Zinc and the food was beautifully presented as well as delicious.

Beautiful tomato seafood salad.

Perfectly prepared seafood.

This shows you how a simple dessert can become a work of art.

Being able to carry a car on board allows us to make side trips. Scattered through areas of France are caves with ancient petroglyphs. My claustrophobia kicked in so I skipped the cave with the petroglyphs. Instead (while Tom went into the big cave) I went for a long walk and explored some small caves and enjoyed the serenity of the area.

A small cave but no petroglyphs

While Tom was in the cave I had a beautiful walk along a stream.

We love picking fruit. Here the fruit trees were so close to the lock Tom could reach out to pick the apples.

We were still heading for Clamcey when we were stopped by a lifting bridge that wouldn't "lift" all the way. With permission from the VNF, Kevin got out the tools and began taking apart the bridge.

He starts cutting.

Kevin is removing the offending bolts.

Success! We just made it under the bridge. The town came out to watch the show. They don't get boats our size in this area.

We reached our final destination in Clamcey and needed to turn around. It was tight!

Kevin and our VNF friend tugged at the front of Rabelo.

Tom was at the back pushing.

We just managed to get Rabelo turned around. It was a wonderful experience cruising along the Canal du Nivernais filled with adventures, history, and magnificent scenery.

Auxerre which has received the classification of a protected Historic Town in France is beautiful. The skyline of Auxerre is punctuated by the Cathedral St Etienne of gothic style as well as three churches.

Auxerre

I love visiting old cemeteries and crypts whenever the opportunity arises. In Auxerre we visited the Abbey of St Germaine which is known for its frescoes found in the crypt dating from the 9th century. These 1000 year old fresco's are the oldest known church frescoes in France.

Fresco found in the crypt

Part of the crypt of Abbey of St Germain

More of the ceiling

The architecture of the crypt is beautiful.

Another treat for us is being able to attend concerts held in churches. The acoustics are always fantastic. In Auxerre we attended an organ concert.

These organ pipes are a modern addition

Auxerre is much more than churches and it's crypt. Walking around the town we found delightful sculptures.

Auxerre has well preserved timbered buildings.

There were amazing bakeries

View of the cathedral from across the Yonne River

Night view from Rabelo

The town is beautifully lit up at night. View from the bridge.

From a cruising point of view we were concerned that we had reached the end of the Yonne River because of our size. According to the charts we wouldn't be able to fit under the Pont Paul Bert. We measured, remeasured, and checked it even again. Kevin was positive we could fit under the bridge and continue along the Yonne River. We made it!

Going under the Pont Paul Bert

Captain Kevin had us tie up in Bailly. There wasn't much there except Bailly Lapierre Winery which we walked to from the canal! It was an amazing treat! The winery is completely underground. Even the parking is underground. It started as a quarry in 1186 when the stone was used for building the Pantheon, Notre Dame Cathedral and much more. From 1927 to 1970 the caverns were used to grow mushrooms. In 1972 it was turned into a winery. This place is so large it can hold up to 9 million bottles. We bought a case of their cremant which is a lovely sparkling wine.

Underground entrance to Bailly Lapierre Winery

Aging bottles

We were told to stand back from the giant stacks of bottles. Occasionally a bottle will explode pushing other bottles out of place.

There were statues throughout the winery

We are enjoying meeting fellow cruisers.

These new friends rowed over from their boat to have dinner on board Rabelo

Not all wineries are fancy. Some are small businesses where they sell right in the middle of their working area. This winery in Irancy grows a grape called Cesar as in Julius Cesar which we had never heard of before. Up to 10% of the Cesar grape can be added to the other grapes. There was a long line of people waiting to sample and purchase this wine.