Thursday, October 16, 2014

Provence Continued


Port du Niel with a fort on the point.
We got on a ferry that took us to Porquerolles Island.  There we had a delicious lunch, a walk around part of the island, ice cream, and then came thunder, lightning, torrential rain and a boat ride back to the mainland in the storm.  But Neil and Louise weren't done.
Porquerolles Island with ruins of a fort

An old windmill on the island
Pigeon Lady on Porquerolles Island
Next was Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is known for its nine mossy waterwheels which are now only for decoration and a reminder of the towns history of it's wool and silk industries.
Mossy windmill

Another windmill
 We visited Gordes.  Then we went to Roussillon which was Europe's capital for Ochre production until WWII.  The buildings are covered with the ochre which creates a uniquely beautifully colorful town.  While there we went in a chateau with an exhibit of the photographer REZA.  I don't believe I have ever been so moved by any photographic collection as I was by REZA.  He is worth looking up.
Roussillon

Another view of Roussillon
It was finally time to end our visit to Provence by going to Avignon with its medieval bridge, imposing Palace of the Popes and dominating walls.
Original city wall
Medieval bridge
Bridge lit up 
Palace of the Popes which is the largest surviving Gothic palace in Europe.
Popes Palace lit up
One more fort to visit before returning to Rabelo.
Next we have Neil and Louise on Rabelo and we wonder…when bad things happen, do they always happen in three's?
Saturday, October 11, 2014

PROVENCE


Casses is a charming town with Parc National des Calanques.  
We left Rabelo and took a train to the South of France joining our friends Louise and Neil.  They took it upon themselves to give us a fabulous introduction to an area we had never visited before.  We took a boat ride while in Casses where we saw tall sheer cliffs with the occasional small beach.  Some of these little beaches are only accessible by kayak, small dinghy, or climbing down a cliff.  We joined the hoards of tourists for lunch at Casses and did some people watching.

We went to St-Tropez and admired the mega yachts.

Continuing our tour we went to Antibes where we saw the 13th Century Chateau Grimaldi which served as Picasso's studio from July-december 1946.  We toured the chateau which is now a museum housing a collection of Picasso's paintings, lithographs, drawings and ceramics as well as an interesting photographic record of the artist at work.  He liked being photographed shirtless.
Small beaches against cliffs.  They aren't anything like the beautiful sandy beaches we have in Southern California.
We took a boat ride to see the beautiful cliffs and inlets
Original front entrance to the Monastery of La Verne

Monastery of La Verne
 Neil took us on a long, extremely windy, narrow road up to the Monastery of La Verne.  It is a former Carthusian monastery of the 12th century.  The Monastery is composed of three areas.  The cloister which is the heart of the monastery is for the monastic sisters who live in solitude.

Bakery

Small cloister with 17th Century serpentine stone arcades

Restored monks cell where a monk prayed, lived, worked, slept and ate all the days of his life.  He left his cell only for the two daily liturgical celebrations in the church. 
Louise and Neil wanted us to see all the famous spots - so next was Cannes with its well known film festival and reputation as the playground for the rich and famous.
This famous couple agreed to pose for us overlooking the beautiful coastline of Cannes.
Antibes with the Chateau Grimaldi behind us.
 Having never seen how perfume and soap are made we went to Parfumerie Fragonard and learned how it's all done.
Pieces of scented soap entering the machine where it is turned into tubes

Tubes of soap coming out of the machine are stacked in boxes.

The tubes are placed into another machine where they are stamped into bars of soap.
Next on the list was Grasse, the world capital of fragrance.

We viewed the Cathedrale Notre Dame de Puy.  They had an impressive collection of art inside.  One wall was lined with paintings by Rubens including the Crown of Thorns and Christ Crucified.  Notre Dame du Puy Cathedral is listed as a historic building (12th, 13th, and 18th centuries).  It is a perfect example of the Romanesque style of Provence with its high, narrow nave, vaulted with heavy arcs.

The alter was impressive.

Not all of the cathedral is in perfect condition.



Our whirlwind tour continues…stay tuned.


Monday, September 29, 2014

MORE OF CRUISING THROUGH BURGUNDY




Rabelo is coming out of a lock with Chateauneuf in the background.
A view of Rabelo at her mooring in Vandenesse from Chateauneuf
At the end of last year we discussed where we would cruise this year.  We loved Burgundy so much we decided to return for a second season.  It was an excellent decision. There were more chateau to visit, villages to explore, restaurants with new cuisine for us, and markets to shop at.

Lock 8 on the Burgundy Canal is one of our favorite local restaurants.
Here was the menu.  Delicious.  It changes daily according to the chief's whim and what she found at the market that day.

This was the main dish.  Ok, it isn't a Michelin starred meal but it was excellent, especially for 14 Euro.

You would think that since we were cruising thru Burgundy which is famous for the delicious wines they produce, that we would be cruising through beautiful vineyards.  There is not a single vineyard to be seen from the canal.  Instead we see green fields, cows grazing, and the trees that line our watery path. 
We get to see different cows, not just the famous white cows.

A view of the Burgundy canal from Rabelo.

Again, fishing is a sport that no one is denied access to .
A great collection of old farming equipment we found on a walk down the Burgundy canal.
Another walk with beautiful scenery.
Tom caught this view of the early morning light.
Commarin is another chateau that we visited.  Since the family still lives in part of the castle only certain areas are open to the public and only with a tour guide.  The name of Commarin was first mentioned in 1214.  In 1476 it was shown as a castle with four big towers of which two still exist.  The Pigeonerrey, which was also built in 1476, fell down recently but was rebuilt with the same stone.  Since 1214 it has never been sold and has always been passed along the family thru inheritance.  It was fortunately spared by the wars and the revolution.

This is over the doorway of the stables
Inside the stables.

Chateau Commarin


Commarin from another angle


Saturday, September 20, 2014

Barging Through Burgundy Continues… Chateauneuf and Semur-en-Auxois



Lunch at the beautiful Abbaye de lal Bussiere
Recently I was sitting under a large umbrella watching the leaves gently falling from magnificent old trees while bees were busily gathering pollen from the lavender plants.  It’s FALL here!

Since we are in Vandenesse–en-Auxois for an extended period of time and have a car we decided to explore the surrounding area. 

We lunched at the Abbaye de la Boussiere.  As you can see we were enamored by the whole experience there.
Abbaye de la Bussiere with a Michelin starred restaurant.  The owners took a run down Abbaye and have been lovingly restoring it and turned it into a magnificent hotel.
An interior view
One view of the grounds.
There are even little ponies grazing on the lush lawns.
Viewing Chateauneuf from the Burgundy Canal.  Can it get any better?
Picking berries coming down from Chateauneuf.  They were delicious!
We walked up to Chateauneuf.  Our reward was lunch at the top…two times.  We had a fabulous time there.  We met and got to know (briefly) tourists from all parts of the world.  The food at the crepe restaurant was delicous.
A detail in Chateauneuf over a doorway.
 We discovered the delightful town of Semur-en-Auxois in the heart of Burgundy.  The population is 4500 and lies half way between Paris and Lyon. It is a delightful medieval city and worth spending a day exploring by foot.
Semur city gate

Semur is a charming town.
Semur with its medieval buildings.
Notre-Dame Church with construction that started in the 1220's.  It was badly damaged during the revolution and restored in 1846.  It is an excellent example of Gothic Art.
These stained glass windows from the XV Century are for the chapel of the butcher. 
This is possibly the last boat-shaped-wash house left in Burgundy.  It was built in 1906.
Rampart and towers.
Look closely and you can see how they are trying to keep the tower from crumbling.
The distinctive white cattle of Burgundy.  Here is  a Charolles bull.