Saint-Quentin

Saint-Quentin

I met my new boyfriend in the beautiful town square. of Saint-Quentin.  On second thought he may be a bit too flamboyant for my taste.
 

Before Bruce and Tess left Rabelo we were able to give them one more experience:  A Tunnel.  But not just any tunnel.  This one is called Riqueval.  It is 5670 meters long which makes it about 3.5 miles of darkness.  We are not allowed to run our engine or generator.  Instead, twice a day up to 17 boats are tied together in a line and pulled through the tunnel with a very special electric boat.  The tunnel is very narrow and low.  You pray that you can stay on course because rubbing up against the walls can be painful to your boat.  We did well, but the new boat owners behind us played bump the walls.  Fortunately paint should cover up the damage.

Exiting the Tunnel Riqueval.

After two hours we finally saw daylight again.

Our next project while in Saint-Quentin was finding a car.  What were we thinking?!?  Instead of renting a car for a day to aid in our search, we walked.  And we walked.  And we walked some more!  We walked for hours.  We walked for miles.  Then, realizing that we would need insurance once we found a car we continued walking the streets of Saint-Quentin trying to find an insurance company that would take care of us.  They wouldn’t even consider insuring us.  One company said we would need a French drivers license!  That would mean taking the test in French.  Not me!  Fortunately Julian came to our rescue.  He put us in touch with an agent he had dealt with and they were happy to provide us with the car insurance we needed.

We found a used car lot where they repair and sell cars.  They had a car that sounded perfect which would be delivered to the lot the next day.  But Julian was taking a few days off.  Our French certainly wasn’t going to cover the negotiations involved in purchasing a car.  It was our lucky day.  The owner Santos was born in Spain.  He spoke Spanish.  Somehow we managed to communicate and bought ourselves a 2007 Megane Peugeot. 

Ruminations

Saint-Quentin is a lovely town but not a tourist destination.  They are surrounded by WWI history.  Their cathedral is beautiful.  We had an amazing dinner at the restaurant Ville d’Isle.  We were taken care of by the lovely owners daughter.  After eating she gave us a tour of the restaurant and kitchen, which was once a spectacular home. 

Poached egg in a mushroom cheese sauce.

            

Fish on Risotto with saffron sauce.

Scallops and potatoes on eggplant with olive tampenade.

The Restaurant Ville d' Isle

The second story floor had these glass panes which were lovely to look at from the main floor.

The restaurant ceiling and chandler.

We saw two movies in English:  Last Days of Summer and States of Grace.  While we enjoyed the first, the second kept us talking about it days after. 

The fishermen there are an interesting group.  They weren’t happy with where we were tied up.  It must be the best fishing spot for miles around.  They kept asking when we would be leaving.  On another note, people don’t pick up after their dogs! 

After having the car for one day we needed our first car repair.  Back to the shop we went.  Santos was very nice.  Lets hope that all the air conditioning needed was Freon.

Our car goes in for its first repair.

Life on the Canal

Runners, walkers, lovers, fishermen, families riding bikes together, kayaking, pleasure craft, commercial barges, private boats, swans, ducks, geese, herons, egrets and more.  Beautiful in every sense of the word.

It is time to lay off the pastries but not the baguettes.  It’s fun watching people walking with their daily baguette in hand.  When they receive their baguette they give it a little squeeze.  As they walk they nibble off the top.  They just can’t wait until they get home for that first bite.  Could you wait?

Baguettes and dessert on the run.

Saint-Quentin had a fabulous cathedral.

Our new car is airborn.

Tom and Julian hoist our new wheels onto the deck of Rabelo.

For those of you interested in learning more about food, wine and travel go to my friend’s web site Shaunaburke.com and sign up for her new blog.  She is a food and wine connoisseur.  The pictures of meals she has eaten in her travels made my mouth water. I’m finding her information informative and it is presented in a very professional manner. I can't wait for her next installment.

Next stop Compiegne.

The Most Memorable Memorial Day EVER

When we arrived in Cambrai it was time for our first guests.  Tom and I walked to the train station and checked the arrivals board.  There was no train expected at the time our friends had said they would arrive!  This was a problem.  Not only did we no longer have any idea as to when to expect them, but also I had invited other people to join us for cocktails in a short time.  We decided that Tom would wait for the next train and I would find my way back to Rabelo to prepare the appetizers.  Tom was relieved to see them on the next train and I was happy to have everyone here together in time for the little party I had arranged.  Cambrai was the town we came to three years ago for barge school.  Our teachers Tam and Di were still here and it was great catching up with them.

We wanted to show Bruce and Tess the area so we rented a car for the day.  We promised the car rental agency we would have the car back no later than 5:55pm because they close at 6:00.  First we went to see the site of the Armistice, which was very sobering.  On November 11, 1918 and again on June 22, 1940 an armistice was signed on this exact same site.  Knowing we were walking on the same ground where Hitler walked is creepy.  From there, needing something happier we went to see my favorite Chateau de Pierrefonds that we had visited 12 years ago.  We rushed through the Chateau because we needed to return the car.  Bruce did his best driving but traffic held us up.  We arrived to return the car at 6:05!  So much for our early start the next day.

Following the Canal de Saint-Quentin we went to Le Champ Luseaux.  It was election day and a national holiday. We met a darling farmer who was very proud of his garden.  I thought his garden was amazing (and very large).  He had many of his seedlings in what looked like plastic water bottles with the bottoms cut off (I assume).  We saw how the French vote, and we met the mayor. 

It was Memorial Day as well as Election Day.  Unfortunately we didn’t find out in time about the ceremony being held at the cemetery.  It was too far to walk to anyway.  We did get to attend the party in the village after the ceremony.  The most important dignitaries returned to Paris, but we were able to meet a few people.  I found it very emotional to discover that the French celebrate OUR Memorial Day, and how much they appreciate what the United States did for France.  The French remember that America saved them!

Bruce and Tess arrive!

Our gardener friend Mr Blavis.  Check out his suspenders.

Mr. Blavis' amazing garden!

Some people have interesting ideas as to what makes a good barge.

World War I tank.

Being on the site of the armistice was no less emotional 12 years later.

My favorite Chateau of 12 years ago Chateau de Pierrefonds.

Could this be the entrances to the Secret Garden?

Welcome!  Welcome!

This hall reminds me of Fontainebleau and Versaille.

View from the Chateau

Courtyard

The art inside the chateau was done by the company that did the "skin" from the Statue of Liberty. There were many examples of their work.

We were able to witness a wedding reception at the Abbaye de Vaucelles.

The happy bride and groom.

The back of the Abbaye

We found these convicts walking along the canal.

Election Day.  The mayor is the woman with the blue, white and red top.

Great faces.

Some local color

 

People dress in period costumes going from one war site to another.

War memorabilia 

The new military patrol  

The children sang songs and speeches were given.

We had the chance to walk and talk.

Ghent. Dandelions and Spring 2014

Ghent:

Whirling, swirling, tumbling around like tumbleweed.  It’s spring again in Belgium.  Is that snow outside?  No my darlings, it is dandelions.  They are the tumbleweed of Europe.  Achoo! 

Women in high heels on cobblestone streets.  Ankles going in every direction.

Lots of construction and many tower cranes.  The economy must be good here.

Beautiful town with a church and castle.  An amazing Flemish Beef Stew that I hope to duplicate.  Keep an eye open for bikes, cars, trams and horse drawn carriages if you want to cross the street.

I may never look at a castle the same after visiting the Gravensteen 12^th-century stone castle.  It has been meticulously restored down to the torture devices used.  I don’t think we have improved as time has passed.  I couldn’t stand the exhibit of instruments of torture.  Creepy.

Since we don’t have a car we act like the locals and walk everywhere.  That is until we bought the museum pass that included unlimited tram rides and they even threw in a canal ride.  The larger supermarkets are found on the outskirts of towns.  Since I needed to do a major marketing (again) we took our two carts, boarded the tram and found the market.  It was easy.  For small items the tiny family owned markets were almost everywhere we went and some were well stocked.

We much preferred Ghent to Brugge.  Here in Ghent we see tourists yes, but also many school children on field trips, and people going about their day to day business.  Prices are much more reasonable as well.  

Here we go again.  An angry man was speaking to us thru our hallway window telling us we can't tie up here.  He speaks no English.  What he spoke sounded like German (probably Dutch), and then French.  We had gotten permission from the port captain.  This guy says the captain has no authority and we must move.  With the VNF strike on Monday we won't be moving until Tuesday at the earliest.  

The square facing Gravensteen Castle.  We had a delicious Flemish Beef Stew.

A view of the castle.

Picturesque street along a canal.

View during the boat ride which I highly recommend.

The monastery that once housed a 1000 monks is down to 14.  In its heyday a major problem was lining up for the toilet pictured on the left.  Can you imagine?

An artist's interpretation of what is to come.

Charming views with the castle towering over the town.

They were serious about their weapons during medieval times.

View of Ghent from the top of the castle.

A few forms of torture!

A portion of the Adoration of the Mystic Lamb by the Van Eyck brothers.  This 20 panel alter piece has quite a history,  part of which was also mentioned in the movie Monument Men.

We went to SMAK Ghents Museum of Contemporary Art.  Thomas Ruff creates huge works of art making and painting many canvases which are fashioned into things like mazes.  When the exhibit is completed the exhibit is destroyed.

When in Belgium one must have a Belgium waffle. 

The castle lit at night.

Tom invites you to have a drink with him.  To your health!