Monday, September 30, 2019

Lechatelet, Ouche Valley, Chateau Pierre-de-Bresse, Guedelon, France

It's difficult for us to imagine more beautiful places to visit than the canals and rivers of France.  We love the peace and tranquility.  It's a special treat when we find a place where we can eat on the water.
We enjoyed drinks and lunch at Cascarot a restaurant/hotel along the Doub River.  Elizabeth the owner was delightful


Our walks are bucolic.
 With the heat wave cooking all of France we weren't up to doing much sightseeing.  I finally said we must get off the boat and be tourists for a little while.  We drove to the Chateau Pierre de Bresse built in the XVII century which is now an ecomuseum.  I was recovering from a bug and had little energy.  We managed to take a lovely walk in the forest around the Chateau but decided to save the inside for another day.
There was a traditional moat surrounding the chateau
The approach to the entrance of the Chateau 
 The weeds growing in the canals have become a major problem.  They are choking the canals making cruising difficult. It's rather like sailing through quicksand.  In some places the weeds are so thick the lock doors are no longer able to open and close.
This weed harvester is removing the weeds preventing the lock doors from opening fully and allowing us to exit.
 When we travel on the rivers we load the vehicles onto the deck of Rabelo.  This enables us to go greater distances without having to go back and forth moving the cars.

 Taking the cars off the barge is interesting to watch and always creates an audience. We have a crane which lifts the car off the deck.  Tom then swings the car over to the dock and gently lowers it.
Our car is being lifted off the deck directed by Tom
Tom and Philippe push the car over the side of the barge so it can be lowered to the path below.
 We enjoyed a Japanese dinner in Dijon at Akatsuki with Amanda and Pete.  I'm looking forward to one day returning for another dinner there.
Good times with good friends in Dijon
 While we do go out occasionally I've been spending hours in my kitchen trying out new recipes.
Salmon pockets with a smoked trout pate inside.
Lunch: a savory Dutch baby with a simple salad and orange slices
We had a great time catching up with our friends Elizabeth and Alex.
 Our walk from the marina in Dijon is nice.  Here is the dam before the lake and park.  The Promenade de 'l Ouche River


 Where we tie up in Dijon we have a choice of two bakeries within a two minute walk.
This is a small sampling of pastries.
 It's time to say goodbye to our Moto which we haven't used in three years.  Philippe took it to a motorcycle shop in the hopes that they can sell it.

 We have a new favorite restaurant Auberge de la Charme in the little village of Prenois outside of Dijon.  I've mentioned it before and I will again.  You can order a three, five, or seven course dinner.  That's the menu!  Sit back and let the feast begin.  Each creative and beautifully presented course is a work of art.  I won't even try to describe what we ate.  Besides each delicious course was a different roll with a uniquely flavored butter.  When the cheese course came we were presented with cheeses we've never seen or heard of.  It was an amazing treat!
We started with the house aperitif which had unusual little blueberries in the bottom of the glass that burst in our mouth
Having a garden on board provides me with fresh herbs for cooking.
At Lock 34 on the Burgundy Canal I scored by picking mirabels.  They were turned into two beautiful mirabel crisps.
 It's been a few years since we last visited Guedelon, the 21st century medieval adventure.  In Northern Burgundy, a team of fifty master-builders have taken on the unique challenge of building a castle using medieval techniques and materials.  All materials, including wood and stone, are obtained locally.  The chief architect designed this castle according to the architectural model developed during the 12th and 13th centuries by Phillip II of France.

The start date is taken as being 1229, in the reign of Louis IX.  It was also important to determine the social status of the fictional lord of Guedelon. His position in the feudal hierarchy, his social and economic standing would determine the size and scale of his castle, the presence of certain architectural features and materials.

At a time when environmental protection is of such concern, Guedelon is also a construction site on which the Middle Ages offers insights into green construction for tomorrow.  This is a lesson in sustainable building.  This pioneering construction site offers information on wattle-and-daub, or rubble walling, making and using lime washes, traditional terra-cotta roof tiles,, oak shakes, flax and hemp ropes.
Forging tools
An example of the work done here
Making dyes for fabric 
Materials used to create paints and dyes

The main building
Steve and Marja on a walkway between structures
Timber is worked to create a variety of uses
This adorable little girl managed to come along for a ride on Rabelo. Philippe had been talking to her mother, and when Tom saw the little girl he told Philippe to invite her to join us as we were just relocating Rabelo in the Dijon marina.

I always enjoy hearing from you.

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Tuesday, September 24, 2019

Food Beautiful Food: A Recurring Theme. I Can't Help Myself, Plus a Few Other Things

There are too many pictures of food for me to post.  The chefs in France seem to outdo themselves.  We are able to order three course lunches or dinners at reasonable prices presented with gastronomic creations that are as pleasing to the eye as they are to the pallet.
Join us for champagne and a few nibbles.
Occasionally I get out of the kitchen.  Eating out is such a treat.
 Verdun-sur-le Doub has a local Sunday market which stretches all around the little town.
This character sets up a moveable boulangerie where you can purchase baguettes literally straight from the oven.
The summer fruits are beautiful. 
I'm ready to take as much fruit back to the boat as I can carry.  Tom has to restrain me.

Morning fog on the river
Philippe has taken apart our front anchor winch to remove all the rust, make it work like new, and paint it to look beautiful.
We've had way too much fun with Amanda and Pete.  Lunches, dinners, drinks, meals on Le Piglet,  Rebelo and restaurants not to mention appetizers, and impromptu dig through the refrigerators and throw beautiful meals together evenings.   All accompanied with champagne (of course).
 We had some delicious meals on L'lle Saint Laurent.
A little amuse bouche. 
Beautiful stuffed tomato
Catch of the day.
One of the lovely desserts

We have ever changing scenery enhanced by the special French light that has drawn artists here for generations.
The Sunday market at Verdun-sur-le-Doubs is always well attended by locals and tourists. 
The rotisserie chickens seen throughout France are popular.

Another spectacular meal at Les Gourmandes Disent Restaurant in Chalon-sur-Saone with Amanda  and Pete.  Of course with more champagne.
I won't bore you with all the delicious courses.  Instead here is the presentation for Tom's dessert called a Montecristo.
Tom was presented with a cigar box.
This is what was inside the cigar box!  All edible.  Brilliant.

The views from the deck of Rabelo on the Doub River are delightful.

Not all parts of the river are navigable
We found a wonderful place to tie up at Lechatelet on the River Saone.

Wednesday, September 11, 2019

Fragnes and Verdun-sur-le-Doub, France

Rabelo tied up in Verdun-sur-le-Doub
 Rabelo carries 4 tons of fuel.  It sounds like a lot, and actually allows us to go a fair distance.  Eventually we need to refuel.  It isn't like we can cruise up to the local gas station and say "fill er up."  Instead we call for a fuel truck.  We carry two types of fuel, white and red.  The red is for heating and isn't taxed like the white fuel which we use for propulsion.
Fuel truck
Rabelo fueling up

 Near where we tied up in Fragnes is a free range chicken farm.  Every time I walk by the chickens come running out of their coop, and crowd around the fence.  I wonder if they think a passerby is going to give them a handout.  The owners open their doors on Saturday's and if you get there early enough you can buy their fresh eggs as well as various other local products.
Free range chickens crowding together watching me walk by.
I felt like this guy was giving me the evil eye.  
Because of all the canal closures our Aussie friends Amanda and Pete caught up with us as they searched for a way to reach their winter mooring.  We shared many meals together. and even more bottles of champagne.
Pete and Amanda enjoying a cocktail before dinner on Rabelo.
 France is in the middle of a serious drought.  There have been numerous canal closures.  Hotel barges as well as cruising canal boats have been forced to make major alternations to their travel plans.
The water level on Canal du Centre is too low.  This picture was taken just a week before the canal was closed for the balance of the season over 2 months early.
With the water level so low we can see how badly the canal has fallen into disrepair.

This ladder is for the baby ducks to be able to climb out of the water.  They are found along all the canals.

The canal runs under this restaurant giving the patrons a great view while they dine.

The lock taking us from the Canal du Centre to the Saone River is 11 meters (36 ft.) deep.

Once the water is lowered the huge lock door opens allowing us to enter the river.

The River Saone is beautiful cruising

These parents are teaching their babies the art of begging for food from the barges
Now that telephone booths have become pretty much extinct, what should be done with them?
In Fragnes they converted a telephone booth into a book exchange

You can get an idea of how low the water level is here at the marina in Verdun-sur-le-Doub on the Doub River. 

Walking around Verdun-sur-le-Doub we found this house with an American flag in the door.  I would have loved to meet the owners.

Lovely church in Verdun-sur-le-Doub
Across the bridge from where we were tied up is an island with a beautiful park and forest.  With the heat we were experiencing, a walk in the forest was wonderful.

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